tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62511372259808863122024-03-06T15:01:57.138-05:00Hort BlogTimely tips, observations and thoughts about Nature and horticultural topics.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-85892148288916855232014-04-02T09:44:00.000-04:002014-04-02T09:44:11.160-04:00What's up with the Honey Bees?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsLCatlQ05B69Wn6RKPEsafyaskj_L0V9Z-GcMx8t7-VrQfLeNBzkk711yu_exf9dMFkm9LT3YDY2kDDKhCP2QFCJrNn_z-PwyuLvk3mtehd_E5k0FZlDNaF_DfmtwWdgkJZbUWxZRT8/s1600/yvone+in+bee+suit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsLCatlQ05B69Wn6RKPEsafyaskj_L0V9Z-GcMx8t7-VrQfLeNBzkk711yu_exf9dMFkm9LT3YDY2kDDKhCP2QFCJrNn_z-PwyuLvk3mtehd_E5k0FZlDNaF_DfmtwWdgkJZbUWxZRT8/s1600/yvone+in+bee+suit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning beekeeper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Honey bees are in the news. Have been for years now. In about 2006, a mysterious condition became
apparent to commercial beekeepers. Colonies of bees dwindled to just a few
young bees and a queen. Instead of tens of thousands of worker bees in a colony
only a handful remained. No disease or other pest organisms were apparent. It
was not a typical pesticide kill in which many dead bees are found piled up in
front of the colony. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">The term “Colony Collapse Disorder” (CCD) was coined to describe
this phenomenon. Eight years later, a simple explanation for CCD still does not
exist. But that </span><span style="font-size: 21px; line-height: 24.533334732055664px;">doesn't</span><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"> mean no one cares or efforts to find answers have not
been made. Last fall a panel of experts who have been studying the problem for
almost a decade came to these conclusions:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1)<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Consensus
is building that a <i>complex set of stressors</i>
and pathogens is associated with CCD. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">2)<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The parasitic
mite, <i>Varroa destructor</i>, remains the
single most detrimental pest of honey bees and is closely associated with overwintering
colony declines. ( note: overwintering losses are not necessarily CCD)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">3)<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Several
viruses are associated with CCD and Varroa mites aggravate the virus problem.
Other pathogens, both new and old, are also increasingly detected.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">4)<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Poor honey
bee nutrition due to lack of good, diverse food sources has an effect on honey
bee health. Loss of honey bee habitat and forage is a concern. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">5)<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Effects of
pesticides on honey bees has been increasingly documented (PSU is taking a lead
role here). Both acute (immediate, lethal injury) and sub lethal effects are
known. Shockingly, Penn State researchers found that more than 100 different
pesticides were detected in a sampling of honey bee pollen and wax.
Interestingly, the most commonly found pesticides…. and those found in highest
amounts, were applied by beekeepers to control Varroa mites!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Get the picture? Simple answers are very satisfying but just
won’t do here. And those who would like
to demonize technology in the form of cell phones, GMOs and other modern inventions
will not find support from the facts. Even the pesticide issue is complex. For
a copy of the full report see this </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/news/2013/report-on-the-national-stakeholders-conference-on-honey-bee-health"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">http://ento.psu.edu/news/2013/report-on-the-national-stakeholders-conference-on-honey-bee-health</span></a><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUD6g-ea0Uhrs_1CzctAZpoHv-fExwJIT0qUhpJCHdd18sd8wGWspdaN9k2jKgMJ5vX0B0tcfS6Dv5gacDMIiIU4pL9EYqpA6wZX7_RNe8nBddEnJTgjMiY74EgP1RqITjYG9lqxFQTAE/s1600/may+2009+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUD6g-ea0Uhrs_1CzctAZpoHv-fExwJIT0qUhpJCHdd18sd8wGWspdaN9k2jKgMJ5vX0B0tcfS6Dv5gacDMIiIU4pL9EYqpA6wZX7_RNe8nBddEnJTgjMiY74EgP1RqITjYG9lqxFQTAE/s1600/may+2009+007.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frame with honey bees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The good news is that bees of all kinds are getting the attention
they deserve. Some cool breakthroughs in long term preservation of honey bee
sperm will allow introduction of traits from European strains of bees through
artificial insemination. (please note that the honey bee we have in the USA was
an Old World import about 400 years ago… along with a lot of other plants and
animals we eat and love). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">And the public concern for bees has resulted in a surge of
interest in beekeeping. The ABC’s of Beekeeping course that I have conducted
for the last five years has filled to capacity every year. The same thing is
happening throughout the country. Penn State has developed an on-line beekeeping
course called Beekeeping 101 </span><a href="http://beekeeping101.psu.edu/"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">http://beekeeping101.psu.edu/</span></a><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> that allows you to study practical beekeeping
anytime, anywhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">Honeybees </span><span style="font-size: 21px; line-height: 24.533334732055664px;">aren't</span><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"> the only bees on the plant. Thousands of
other bee species are also experiencing disease, loss of habitat and assaults from
pesticides. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Penn States Center for pollinator research </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators</span></a><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> is a great
place to start if you want to learn more. You can even certify your garden as
“pollinator friendly” through his </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators/public-outreach/cert/Cert-steps-main"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators/public-outreach/cert/Cert-steps-main</span></a><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> program. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qElenvZZSbAUIqjckJt9mklDnVtb7Pr2VP4yLYkUr8rF4cMtQb8YJySC-bvzoZWHv-ZqP2Z7YqNX-u9m8fSiWHxQvLCobOurkWehQP1HAL4D8swAvT9m4_uJNhPlfXo-9jOfJNcmT14/s1600/caution+bees2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qElenvZZSbAUIqjckJt9mklDnVtb7Pr2VP4yLYkUr8rF4cMtQb8YJySC-bvzoZWHv-ZqP2Z7YqNX-u9m8fSiWHxQvLCobOurkWehQP1HAL4D8swAvT9m4_uJNhPlfXo-9jOfJNcmT14/s1600/caution+bees2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Be careful in assessing what you read about honeybee health
in the popular press and the internet. Often times the headline (or even the
main article) is designed to grab your attention but not enlighten the reader. Stories
about bad guys and bogeymen sell newspapers but fail to fully explain
important, complex issues such as the health of a cosmopolitan insect like the
honey bee. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-16453008223840468282014-01-13T14:49:00.000-05:002014-01-22T16:02:21.099-05:00Native Green Medal Plants and Jenkins Arboretum<div style="text-align: left;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWD0G1Zf8CsNYk1GmTe75OiXIJDvAlQ7aUgmKeKqlkUqLv3GPL_konFSfB81B3hRkhn4uuZtpd16WTmKOlB8VlXlra-K7bgy9JSkJwNQCd8Vu8tIPDY-lY2TkzJq0rCm_d7bp8G3pnBI/s1600/Summer+2007+087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWD0G1Zf8CsNYk1GmTe75OiXIJDvAlQ7aUgmKeKqlkUqLv3GPL_konFSfB81B3hRkhn4uuZtpd16WTmKOlB8VlXlra-K7bgy9JSkJwNQCd8Vu8tIPDY-lY2TkzJq0rCm_d7bp8G3pnBI/s320/Summer+2007+087.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oakleaf Hydrangea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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In early January, Penn State Extension conducted a “Green Industry”
conference at Delaware Valley College. We’ve
been collaborating with DelVal, The Pennsylvania Landscape /Nursery Association
(PLNA) and The Professional Grounds Management Society (PGMS) for about 30
years to bring professionals in the green industry together for a day of learning
and socializing. This year 175 people participated. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The afternoon keynote speaker was Dr. Harold Sweetman, Executive
Director of the Jenkins Arboretum. Harold’s presentation was spellbinding. Great
photography and beautiful plants are a winning combination. His message was
about Green Medal Plants … plants native to the eastern United States that
thrive in the Delaware Valley region and would be beautiful in residential and
commercial landscapes throughout southeastern Pennsylvania. The
designation is made by Sweetman and the Jenkins staff. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Here, I’d like to share thoughts on a few of the Green Medal
trees and shrubs. There are also Green medal herbaceous plants...wildflower
and ferns. But I’ll stick to the woody
plants because I know them best. <o:p></o:p></div>
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You can see the entire list here <a href="http://www.jenkinsarboretum.org/greenribbon.html">http://www.jenkinsarboretum.org/greenribbon.html</a>.
And, I certainly won’t attempt to compete with the Harold's photographs by
including lots of pictures! I encourage you to see multiple images of each species
at the website link shown above. <o:p></o:p></div>
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One interesting thing about the Green Medal designation…. it
is for the <i>species</i> not specific
cultivars. For some plants (think <i>Cornus
florida</i>) you’ll find many cultivars. But the focus of the program is to
make us more aware of the species in general. You can <i>branch out</i> from there. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ok, on to the plants. Maybe the reason I warmed up to Harold’s
presentation so much is because I see the plants he discussed almost every day.
I have most of them in my front or backyard. And we have some of them in the fledgling
Almshouse Arboretum on the grounds of Neshaminy Manor Center where Penn State’s
Extension office is located. <o:p></o:p></div>
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So here are a few woody plants that you really should consider
adding to your landscape this year. What? You don’t have a landscape of your
own? OK. Find a park, school, church, or other public area and set a goal to
obtain each of the Green Medal plants. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48KfKjAH6YlAHkYmnHkJND41yviS_xv1YqKoM-974Aog9w6LaVJWohwe5Mc4yfmJkFEofsmWw8dBUvdEism-msCDj4zWdxVeftE89uT7qj1sYgCrRuJSvs1dkwQED5Jy8cBzsN6Wm52c/s1600/Arboretum_Inventory+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48KfKjAH6YlAHkYmnHkJND41yviS_xv1YqKoM-974Aog9w6LaVJWohwe5Mc4yfmJkFEofsmWw8dBUvdEism-msCDj4zWdxVeftE89uT7qj1sYgCrRuJSvs1dkwQED5Jy8cBzsN6Wm52c/s320/Arboretum_Inventory+010.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<u>Eastern Redbud.</u>
<i>Cercis canadensis</i> – not red buds…. purple/lavender
buds! Before the leaves emerge! That last for weeks! This plant is simply
stunning in early spring. White flowered forms are available. And, it also has beautiful
clear-yellow fall foliage. There are many cultivars with interesting summer
foliage... even variegated, if you must. Small tree. Fits into existing landscapes. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<u>Common Pawpaw</u>. <i>Asimina
triloba </i>– Ok, not so common. Of all the plants on the list, this one may be most
unfamiliar to you. But after hearing Harold describe a Pawpaw Daiquiri, I know
it has a future. My plants are still young and have not yet borne fruit. But I have eaten it and they are as tropical
tasting as a mango or bannana. Just wild. Pawpaw is tolerant of shade and mucho
soil moisture which makes it a good fit for such otherwise challenging sites.
Get at least two different individuals to insure cross pollination for fruit
set. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Carolina Silverbell</u>. <i>Halesia carolina
or Halesia tetraptera</i> - Looking for a small to medium sized, shade tolerant,
flowering, native tree. Gotta have
Carolina Silverbell. Silverbell refers
to the white flowers that hang downward from the previous season’s growth. This
plant requires good soil... .deep, moist, acidic, well drained but it will
reward you with its unique attributes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Sweetbay Magnolia</u>. <i>Magnolia virginiana</i> – A semi-evergreen small tree. Ok, I just looked
and the specimen at the Almshouse Arboretum is leafless. But the one year old
stems are bright green! This magnolia is noteworthy for it flower fragrance. Shade
and wet tolerant. Foliage is dark glossy green on top and silvery beneath. Shade and soil moisture tolerance is a big plus.
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Alternateleaf Dogwood</u>. <i>Cornus alternifolia </i>– Here’s a plant I really want. And I hope I live
a while because the older specimens have such great character. The appeal of
this dogwood is not the flowers, foliage or fruit but the horizontal branching
habit. Yes, it has flowers of consequence but since they appear after the
leaves they do not have the impact of flowers on <i>Cornus florida</i>. Speaking of which, the very common Flowering Dogwood
is still a great plant. In fact, it is hard to beat for flowers, form and fruit.
With close to 100 cultivars and subspecies in the trade, you will have no
problem locating something you like. Put it at the corner of your house, plant three
or five in a cluster near a woods edge or set one as a specimen in front of a wall.
You almost can’t go wrong with what plant authority Michael Dirr calls “the aristocrat
of native flowering trees”. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzBHzeH_sH8eX7TVKpXXWUlmMon166UKzmQXTtqh7t_HJZK7PHRTuq636Q47sW7NYIurm-miph1udvUnGvq2jK1DyRq1Ts9jKa-9G9ftxR0sRpZBbe4pkdMcRf1syFcjrmgWfljtkiAc/s1600/winterberry+holly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzBHzeH_sH8eX7TVKpXXWUlmMon166UKzmQXTtqh7t_HJZK7PHRTuq636Q47sW7NYIurm-miph1udvUnGvq2jK1DyRq1Ts9jKa-9G9ftxR0sRpZBbe4pkdMcRf1syFcjrmgWfljtkiAc/s320/winterberry+holly.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Winterberry Holly</span></td></tr>
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<u>Winterberry Holly</u>. <i>Ilex
verticillata –</i> Want to make a big splash of color in you landscape? In
mid-winter? Look no further than this native, deciduous holly. These plants are
widely sold and dozens of cultivars exist. They have been bred and selected for
heavy fruit set. I know a guy who has three acres of them that are cut for the florist
trade. Red and yellow fruit are possible with red predominating. Yes, you’ll
need one, dull male. That’s life. And there is not much sense in having a single
female when half a dozen will really liven things up. These plants tolerate
very wet sites. What better way to solve a landscape problem than by filling it
with color. I have never seen a serious pest on this species. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Franklin Tree</u>. <i>Franklinia
alatamaha</i> – We don’t have space here to tell the fascinating history of
this plant. And for landscape purposes I guess it doesn’t matter. This small
tree (10-25 feet) produces beautiful, large, fragrant, white flowers with bright yellow centers in
mid-summer… for starters. Fall color is a beautiful reddish purple. The dark, fluted
smooth bark and interesting branch architecture
make it interesting when dormant. Hard to transplant and maybe difficult to find
except at specialty retailers. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Most, (probably all) of these plants have important relationships
with native insects and other critters. When you fill your landscape with such
plants, you are not the only one who benefits. <o:p></o:p></div>
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One thing I have noticed over the decades of involvement with
the Green Industry Conference at Delaware Valley College...we have no trouble finding
outstanding horticulturists, like Harold Sweetman right in our own back yard. Kind of like these
native plants… you don’t have to go far to find a winner. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally, don’t miss seeing the plants we just discussed, and
many more, live and “in person”. Visit Jenkins
Arboretum <a href="http://www.jenkinsarboretum.org/index.html">http://www.jenkinsarboretum.org/index.html</a>
<o:p></o:p></div>
Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-90108067095785829402013-10-18T15:13:00.000-04:002013-10-18T15:13:08.513-04:00Fall color<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Got a call the other day from a person who was quite concerned about pine trees...needles turning brown and dropping. In fact, she said the ground beneath the trees was completely carpeted with brown needles. She was distraught. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Funny, I had seen the exact same thing that day and I was ecstatic! Beautiful fall color! Same trees, different reaction. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The difference is understanding that evergreens, such as white pine, while indeed evergreen, naturally shed dead needles in the fall. Perfectly normal and natural. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The key is to note that the needles that are being shed are older interior needles. </span><br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-33968419364064387642013-09-27T12:25:00.001-04:002013-10-21T15:43:12.118-04:00Fall is for Planting<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />Fall will probably always have a hard time competing with spring when it comes to generating gardening enthusiasm. I guess there is some natural rhythm that encourages us to plant in spring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But fall planting has many benefits. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">ü<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Soil is warm... warmer than in the spring. Roots continue to grow in the fall well past the time that leaves are shed. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">ü<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Moisture is usually plentiful and reliable in fall. And, deciduous plants that we establish in fall lose their leaves, reducing demands for moisture. Fall planted trees and shrubs have a ‘leg-up” on the spring planted ones regarding root growth and are better prepared for the likelihood of summer droughts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">ü<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Plants are cheaper! Every garden center I pass has some incentive for fall tree and shrub sales. Take advantage of it. You have nothing to lose and lots to gain. Do check plant quality before buying. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Fall is a perfect time for lawn care.</u></b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a serious Philadelphia Phillies fan I have been listening to one of the major turf product suppliers telling me to “feed and seed” my lawn in almost every radio broadcast since March. Well, as the old saying goes, “Even a stopped clock is right twice a day." That fellow was on target in late spring… and again now. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">September might be the ideal month for new lawn seedings but Penn State guidelines say seeding until October 15 is fine and we can stretch this deadline to late October successfully in Southeastern PA . One of the best reasons to establish new lawns in fall is to avoid the competition of summer annual weeds such as crabgrass. Crabgrass germinates and competes with spring seedings but not in the fall. The warm, moist soil is ideal for germination and root growth. Spring is a poor second choice when it comes to lawn establishment. A word of advice: simply tossing grass seed on the soil surface will not result in germination. That seed needs to be <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">in</i> the soil, not on it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> See this <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uc206.pdf">Penn State publication</a> f</span>or details on renovation seeding.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Weed control and fertilization are two maintenance tasks that are best done in the fall</u></b>. Weeds translocate herbicides very well as they approach dormancy. This means good weed control because the root systems of perennial weeds are killed. Controlling weeds is the fall means virtually weed-free lawns in spring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clover, dandelion and other broadleaves weeds are pretty easy to control with modern chemistries available in the garden center. October is a great month to go at it. Weed and feed products can kill two birds with one stone. But generally, sprayed on herbicides provide better control of broadleaved weeds. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">If you have not applied some nitrogen fertilizer this fall, do it ASAP. You’ll be rewarded with good plant response this fall as well as next spring. Fertilization may be the best weed control practice you can perform. Dense turf competes with weed invaders. How much fertilizer should you apply? Label instructions will get you in the ball park. For a more precise approach, you can <a href="http://www.aasl.psu.edu/HOWTO.HTM">get a Penn State soil test kit </a></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.aasl.psu.edu/HOWTO.HTM">here</a> and follow the recommendations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ever applied lime to your lawn? If not, there's a good chance that this cheap pH adjuster will pay off. Soil tests will advise on this, too. If you are guessing… 50 lbs of ground limestone per 1000 square feet is a starting point. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Plant bulbs now. </u></b>This is certainly a case of practicing delayed gratification. It will be months before you see the fruits of your labor. But, you can’t have that glorious spring display of daffodils and tulips if you aren’t willing to go to work now! Plants lots for best<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>effect. Think in terms of 25, 50 and 100. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Not into flowers? How about garlic? October is garlic planting month. I use Columbus Day as a reminder to plant garlic but there is plenty of leeway on this. A local farmers market is a good place to find locally adapted garlic varieties and you can find one by looking at our </span><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/bucks/news/spotlight/2013-fresh-from-bucks-co.-farms-farm-market-directory"><span style="font-size: large;">Fresh From Bucks County Farms Directory</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Growing garlic is very easy. Check out some highlights here in </span><a href="http://www.buckshort.blogspot.com/2010/07/growing-great-garlic.html"><span style="font-size: large;">one of my previous blog posts</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Odds and ends. </u></b>What better time to be in the garden than on a cool sunny day in fall? Here’s a list of some other tasks suited to the season:</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><u>Kill perennial weeds</u>. Canada thistle, bindweed, poison ivy. As long as they have green leaves they are great targets for translocated herbicides such as glyphosate (Roundup, etc). </span><o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><u>Start a compost pile</u>. Tree leaves, brush, garden clean up stuff.. they all make great ingredients for a compost pile. For the basics </span><a href="http://web.extension.illinois.edu/homecompost/building.cfm"><span style="font-size: large;">check out this publication</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> from Illinois Extension. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">This </span><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-mJ3H9P4zw"><span style="font-size: large;">cool Cornell University video</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> goes into details </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">and </span><a href="http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/smallscale.htm"><span style="font-size: large;">this Cornell publication</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> has</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"> even more good composting information. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Winterize garden equipment</u>. Why not put all of that summer garden gear to bed in good condition? Clean and sharpen shovels, hoes and other hand equipment. Rub some linseed oil into wooden handles. Service power equipment. Drain and hang hoses. Empty and store flower pots and other containers. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Seed cover crops into vacant vegetable garden beds</u>. Rye is probably the best all around winter cover for our area. Find it at farm supply stores. Rye can be seeded until the middle of November and makes a dense, winter hardy ground cover. Spade that overwintered rye into the soil in early spring before it gets too tall. You’ll be amazed at the massive root system it creates. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"></span>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-90400671846550485792013-07-02T17:06:00.001-04:002013-08-15T13:21:47.400-04:00Ten Terrific Summer Garden Ideas<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1. Keep planting in the vegetable garden. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Wise gardeners already have an eye towards the fall harvest season. After Labor Day, tomatoes are on their last legs, zucchini are about shot (or you are sick of them), and summer diseases have ravaged the vine crops. By planting cool loving crops in July and August, you can extend the gardening season to Thanksgiving… and beyond. Beets and carrots can be seeded in July and early August for fall harvest. Cabbage family crops such as broccoli and cauliflower can be transplanted at this time. Check out garden centers for transplants. Also, in places where peas, radish, lettuce, broccoli and other early maturing crops have petered out, consider seeding quick maturing crops like beans and summer squash which can mature in 50-60 days from seed. For a good guide to seeding dates and culture of many vegetable see Penn State’s publication, </span><a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf"><span style="font-size: large;">Vegetable Gardening</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">2. Try something new. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5buKBJ_i_BCTKs5E4uZJD0Vw1PnrRH-ORLbSSRvxNamuOmaMCeMHza4MBLlrAAJsznoZxoVrugjpLr0oQ_9Sc6Iy8VnsGrQoqP8hdJKPu5_SDxtOq-ElWTLjk16hqy20nRTNqItoaccg/s1600/swedes+in+pail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="240" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5buKBJ_i_BCTKs5E4uZJD0Vw1PnrRH-ORLbSSRvxNamuOmaMCeMHza4MBLlrAAJsznoZxoVrugjpLr0oQ_9Sc6Iy8VnsGrQoqP8hdJKPu5_SDxtOq-ElWTLjk16hqy20nRTNqItoaccg/s320/swedes+in+pail.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rutabagas</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Ever eat Kohlrabi? Rutabaga? Arugula? You might be surprised to find you love them. Each of these is a great addition to the summer vegetable garden and will be ready for fall harvest. Even if your tastes are not adventurous, you’ll surely find a new kind of lettuce in the gardening catalog. My new garden plant this year is </span><a href="http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8833-salanova-home-garden-mix-pelleted.aspx"><span style="font-size: large;">Johnny’s Seeds Salanova</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> lettuces. Check it out! These varieties would make a great addition to the fall garden. Seed in early-mid August. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Oh, and I had to try tomato varieties called Paul Robeson and Blue Beech!</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span><span style="font-size: large;">Ok, not into vegetables? How about flowers? If you want to see what’s new in annual flowers, take a ride out to </span><a href="http://trialgardenspsu.com/"><span style="font-size: large;">Penn State’s Flower Trials</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> in Landisville, PA (near Lancaster). More than 1000 cultivars are beautifully displayed and labeled. The public is welcome to visit on weekdays from dawn to dusk (Fridays till 2:30) throughout the summer. This place is a “must do” on my summer calendar. There is a one-day special Summer Garden Experience on July 27 with guided tours of the farm, speakers, and special displays. The event is free but parking is ten bucks. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">3. Kill poison ivy. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6e11TC0i439lWexpxH90Rae348lKjiMoIdxaWsGDeR5tF63JEg9du1rktyy7hLAzT5fRQPlBx84UL0Z6JYVbdpg6OU76Ul46ed4ORH4cl4I2el11F26kf5CauoYKGR2XU70-Ek4k9d6c/s1024/2007+Feb-May+200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="240" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6e11TC0i439lWexpxH90Rae348lKjiMoIdxaWsGDeR5tF63JEg9du1rktyy7hLAzT5fRQPlBx84UL0Z6JYVbdpg6OU76Ul46ed4ORH4cl4I2el11F26kf5CauoYKGR2XU70-Ek4k9d6c/s320/2007+Feb-May+200.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Poison ivy in bloom</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Perhaps only a card carrying member of the Northeast Weed Science Society (like me) would put this on their list of summer fun but there it is. Fact is, mid-summer ‘til frost is an ideal time to tackle this weed. The herbicides triclopyr and glyphosate are the best materials for this job. Triclopyr is found in several products sold in garden centers, sometimes sold as Poison Ivy Killer. In some products, it is pre-mixed with glyphosate. Products containing triclopyr alone will kill poison ivy but will not damage turf grasses. Glyphosate products are “non-selective” and will injure all plants that are contacted. As always follow label instructions. </span><a href="http://www.extension.iastate.edu/publications/pm773.pdf"><span style="font-size: large;">For a more complete discussion of poison ivy, see this</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">4. Harvest and enjoy garlic. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPoSoceVRmkGbb7299Dar72x6RykJ6DXBZtAp74A8drFjaPcx7LqkSO3ebkHcsceq0AXyngWtmuyOBkiGoDRFXUPxo-eGyVnOl2OQp_kHha1KXy9ECoHjzqGFj76eNtU8FzJ4ACfUQc0Y/s1600/3+grahams+barn+red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="240" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPoSoceVRmkGbb7299Dar72x6RykJ6DXBZtAp74A8drFjaPcx7LqkSO3ebkHcsceq0AXyngWtmuyOBkiGoDRFXUPxo-eGyVnOl2OQp_kHha1KXy9ECoHjzqGFj76eNtU8FzJ4ACfUQc0Y/s320/3+grahams+barn+red.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">July harvested garlic</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Ok if you didn’t plant garlic last fall you won’t be harvesting your own this July. In this case, make finding a source of locally grown garlic your mission. Farmers markets and garlic festivals are good places to find some locally adapted “stinking rose”. For those of us with garlic, the rule is to harvest when about 60 % of the leaves have turned brown. Usually this is about the 4th of July… or a bit later. Hang the harvested garlic in a warm, well ventilated place out of the sun such as the rafters of a garage and let them dry down for a few weeks. Then trim the tops off… about an inch above the head and store at room temperature. Of course, enjoy some of that fresh juicy garlic right away. If heads of garlic got a bit over-mature, save these for fall planting or eat right away. Be sure to give a head or two to friends and encourage them to join the garlic growing gang. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">5. Plan for late summer turf renovations.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="255" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU41Zwnh_jDB9LL83pM-E4b0RsBWa7mOLwtlFtCdbwtrRCSn8Rqk4RhRp8kDelIGUpzFiCuUbLv2FdmrSDZQcJAUzqcGEPiCCfAC1mjc_0gSsULbAmGf9fXVuAxyQwCcZgaPY9h8uY0pw/s320/Byers+kid+schulpure+calendar.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids like lawns</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Penn State agronomists continually remind us that late summer is the best time to renovate an old lawn or start a new lawn from scratch. Why? Because conditions are excellent for grass seed germination and this is followed by perfect condition for continued growth. Soil is warm, days are cooling, weed pressure is reduced, rainfall is plentiful… perfect for our cool season turfgrass species such as Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue and fine fescues. So, set a target date in the last week of August or the first week of September. Follow guidelines in <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uc206.pdf">Penn State’s lawn renovation fact sheet</a> . You’ll want to be prepared with soil fertility information (pH, nutrient and organic matter levels), so soil test in July or early August. </span><a href="http://www.aasl.psu.edu/HOWTO.HTM"><span style="font-size: large;">See this</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> to learn how to submit sample to Penn State for analysis.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">6. Pinch and Prune </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Ko2atjltqYsCvddpvTP4dmpwdvU0KqM9WH5Ll8qYdfGDpOM0XFWToeB780DgfLh6v2__0TZom2Nzw4oQvWU8tuGXrq4fTtH4CO764AYcL_FA_Y7BYPhoaITqd_UN42inpjdAeb0C_qI/s1024/topiary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="240" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Ko2atjltqYsCvddpvTP4dmpwdvU0KqM9WH5Ll8qYdfGDpOM0XFWToeB780DgfLh6v2__0TZom2Nzw4oQvWU8tuGXrq4fTtH4CO764AYcL_FA_Y7BYPhoaITqd_UN42inpjdAeb0C_qI/s320/topiary.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Guess what</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">While the old saying “prune when the knife is sharp” may be a bit too liberal, the window of opportunity to prune is wider than most folks think. Forsythia over grown? Prune it. Missed thinning out the Wigelia? Do it in July. Didn’t pinch the mums? No wonder they are so straggly! I weed whack my <em>Nipponanthemum nipponicum</em> every 4th of July to keep the plants compact and the bloom upright. Late summer is probably not an idea time to do major pruning but July has some good possibilities. Here is a great </span><a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs095.pdf"><span style="font-size: large;">Penn State guide to pruning woody landscape plants. </span></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">7. Start a compost pile.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZs2z2_w769WYHw0Mx9FRrmQTay2RwNg52z5eN9qux_zj2Eb-KRGTYP2yRxx8UXiwqh6yYn8EI5x-HbIaM2btfG4fmHJj0Vf380Gmr6fmxAm-1Nf0c4-rhwDz3sqOJC_iDAGNW2sVhNk/s1024/turning+compost+unit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZs2z2_w769WYHw0Mx9FRrmQTay2RwNg52z5eN9qux_zj2Eb-KRGTYP2yRxx8UXiwqh6yYn8EI5x-HbIaM2btfG4fmHJj0Vf380Gmr6fmxAm-1Nf0c4-rhwDz3sqOJC_iDAGNW2sVhNk/s320/turning+compost+unit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two bin turning unit</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As summer progresses, mounds of organic matter begin to accumulate. Grass clippings, garden cleanup stuff, melon rinds and corn husks from a picnic…. all great stuff for a compost pile. If composting is new to you, </span><a href="http://web.extension.illinois.edu/homecompost/building.cfm"><span style="font-size: large;">here</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> is one of many great guides that will get you started. Turn that trash into treasure. It’s black gold for the garden. If you encounter compost questions as you go, please call us at Bucks County Extension (215-345-3283) to discuss your situation. </span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">8. Visit gardens and arboreta near and far. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBxlWRWk2CV48I-q6wBXn2MNP7dvbI8Q-ST_Add9SkC8IrAm5So3-dE_tuqay6RCIwvwDcmAhw1T4ahIOC84awfFDjNoRiNXDJhxxMf4yfnJGGUALHX_RMyPGek2ugVrR79TkpUZvt9U/s1600/Summer+2007+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="300" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBxlWRWk2CV48I-q6wBXn2MNP7dvbI8Q-ST_Add9SkC8IrAm5So3-dE_tuqay6RCIwvwDcmAhw1T4ahIOC84awfFDjNoRiNXDJhxxMf4yfnJGGUALHX_RMyPGek2ugVrR79TkpUZvt9U/s400/Summer+2007+094.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Longwood Gardens</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">If a picture is worth a thousand words imagine the volumes of information you will get by visiting a new garden. This might be a friend’s place down the street or the bulb display in <a href="http://www.keukenhof.nl/">Keukenhof</a> ! Well, save the Keukenhof trip for next Spring. But you don’t have to go to Holland to see world-class gardens. Longwood, Chanticleer, Scott Arboretum, Henry Schmieder Arboretum, Burpee’s Fordhook Farm and many, many more outstanding places in our neighborhood will provide a shot of garden inspiration. Plan to visit one interesting place this summer. Don’t forget </span><a href="http://trialgardenspsu.com/"><span style="font-size: large;">Penn State’s Trial Gardens</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> in Landisville. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">9. Find a place to plant a tree this fall.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESIibujAb9ICJ_rmhrfNiGkq7Pe8RA6Zv2TQDE0nRxhh-34G8S1X8K2dMCkEqTtU28RN0-2Dmp4s8fuWPoY0Gaw-SEcEJBmNLFVCwLGuqGWNom99-NrxmEP8_T4H2QnovVdW44fBqp7g/s1600/Fall+2007+(23).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="316" oya="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESIibujAb9ICJ_rmhrfNiGkq7Pe8RA6Zv2TQDE0nRxhh-34G8S1X8K2dMCkEqTtU28RN0-2Dmp4s8fuWPoY0Gaw-SEcEJBmNLFVCwLGuqGWNom99-NrxmEP8_T4H2QnovVdW44fBqp7g/s320/Fall+2007+(23).JPG" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Balled and Burlap Tree Planting</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have been appreciating some of the trees that Penn State Master Gardeners have planted in our Almshouse Arboretum over the last 6 years. It’s amazing how fast they grow. Maybe your own property doesn’t need a tree. I’ll bet you can find a place that does. Schools, parks, churches, municipal grounds and other public places need trees. Get involved. Start a tree planting program of your own… or join an existing one like <a href="http://phsonline.org/greening/plant-one-million">PHS’s Plant One Million</a> . </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Fall is an excellent time to plant trees and shrubs. What to plant? </span><a href="http://www.patrees.org/"><span style="font-size: large;">You’ll find good suggestions here </span></a><span style="font-size: large;">.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">10. Hug a bug</span>. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNDVbgBDzWh0egVpfKboncKx_wK5JxKOhmIhybdzb6X03oTzR_TQH4z4eLTWX9BWHlAsHBeQ9VWO00PEW34YGzHIBaagmAHlhgh7MZiHKTiOLfflMNFNA1oc8ihanG76unC0xeV6s92M/s1600/praying+mantis.JPG" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNDVbgBDzWh0egVpfKboncKx_wK5JxKOhmIhybdzb6X03oTzR_TQH4z4eLTWX9BWHlAsHBeQ9VWO00PEW34YGzHIBaagmAHlhgh7MZiHKTiOLfflMNFNA1oc8ihanG76unC0xeV6s92M/s320/praying+mantis.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praying Mantis</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Ok, not literally…. but consider doing something nice for an insect. And you don’t have to become a beekeeper to do some good. <br />For some people, hugging a bug seems counter-intuitive. All bugs are bad to some folks. Certainly gardeners experience their share of destructive insects. Most of us have been stung, literally once or twice in our lives and this leaves a lasting impression. But the vast majority of insects we meet are nice creatures… simply going about their business. And some researchers are pointing out that we may be taking for granted the “free services” that many insects provide, especially the insects that serve as pollinators…. the bugs that move pollen from flower to flower. In many cases, this service is an essential part of seed and fruit production. Lots of these insects are bees….all kinds of bees. Tiny ones and big bumblebee-like ones and everything in between. Most of us will never know their names. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So how can you figuratively hug a bug. Plant them something they like! Make it part of your garden. Herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees can all serve as food and shelter for insects. Want more information? </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/bees/gardening-information-to-encourage-pollinators"><span style="font-size: large;">See this</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. I found </span><a href="http://www.pollinator.org/PDFs/EasternBroadleaf.Oceanic.rx18.pdf"><span style="font-size: large;">this very nice guide</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> by poking around the site. Really into it? </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators/public-outreach/cert/Cert-steps-main"><span style="font-size: large;">Get your garden certified as pollinator friendly.</span></a> <br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-1634026130067199572013-04-09T14:41:00.004-04:002013-08-15T13:18:37.941-04:00Emerald Ash Borer Update<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4refY4DVcz-4djfei5tSM5quJEbIwgXnGT_sHX2ebEzOzmJrE2WRJp4qgkK40sQFXTO-OVCVc2Kfow446_7eGDlwOhbnD-pMpRXHsBo3NULFNtS98wtQir0ePUhePqIApZhyphenhyphencuTl9K9E/s1600/EAB+GAlleriescompressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" bua="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4refY4DVcz-4djfei5tSM5quJEbIwgXnGT_sHX2ebEzOzmJrE2WRJp4qgkK40sQFXTO-OVCVc2Kfow446_7eGDlwOhbnD-pMpRXHsBo3NULFNtS98wtQir0ePUhePqIApZhyphenhyphencuTl9K9E/s320/EAB+GAlleriescompressed.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emerald Ash Borer feeding galleries</td></tr>
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Last year at this time, we were consumed with figuring out how to deal with the reality that Emerald Ash Borer had been detected in Bucks County. A year later, this pest seems to have faded away. Not so! </div>
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While no additional detections beyond the original site in Warrington have been noted, the bug has not disappeared. There were many ash trees infested at this site and no doubt the adults that emerged from those trees flew off to mate and infest other trees. Studies of previously infested sites indicate that the infestation will move about ½ to one mile per year, even when attempts to eradicate the insect are in force. In addition, the infestation in Warrington is estimated to be several years old. So…..I figure EAB is most likely already established a few miles from Warrington, it just hasn’t been detected yet. </div>
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Still, the good news is that folks who fall outside of a 10-15 mile radius of Warrington can wait and watch. Researchers say that treating trees beyond this is a waste of money. This “lull” period provides time for people and communities to make a plan for the day when EAB arrives. It’s a question of when, not if, and that’s an important fact. There is no doubt that ash in Buck County will be killed when this insect reaches them. </div>
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For a refresher on Emerald Ash Borer, see <a href="http://www.buckshort.blogspot.com/2012/03/yes-kiss-your-ash-goodbye.html">this site</a>.<br />
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On Thursday May 9, The Pennsylvania Horticulture Society will conduct and Emerald Ash Borer workshop at Neshaminy Manor Center for municipal, private and community professionals who are planning for the impacts of EAB. <a href="https://www.pennhort.net/treetenders">Contact PHS to register</a>. Pre-registration is required. <br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-88072392884256013032013-01-04T15:06:00.004-05:002013-01-04T15:06:53.302-05:00Wood Heat.... Go Wood!
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Mini Holzhausen</div>
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Is there anything more pleasant than sitting by a warm, wood fire? Not much, in my book. The pleasure grows if you cut and split the wood yourself. As they say… in this manner the wood heats you twice. First, while working up a sweat splitting it ! Next, when you burn it. The whole process is very satisfying. <br />
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Wood heat can be economical as well. A cord of ash or oak has about the equivalent heating value of a ton of hard coal, 130 gallons of fuel oil or 3500 kilowatt hours of electricity. You do the math. Ok, I’ll do some…if fuel oil is selling at $3.50 a gallon, I think I can pay $455 for a cord of dry hardwood such as ash or oak (130 x $3.50 = $455). Currently, you can buy wood by the cord for about half this price. If you have a chainsaw and pickup truck you’ll find wood readily for free. That big storm Sandy was a windfall for some of us… literally. These figures assume you are burning that wood in a reasonably efficient wood stove, not a fireplace. <br />
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Of course, tending a wood stove is different from turning a thermostat. Not to mention the need for a wood storage area, hauling ashes, the centralized nature of heat from a wood stove, hitchhiking bugs, cold mornings, etc, etc, etc. I admit it’s not for everyone. On the other hand, it’s hard to get a real romantic feeling from a radiator. At least it is for me. <br />
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There is an awful lot to learn if burning wood is a new venture for you. Safety is a major issue. Proper stove installation and venting is critical. Oh, I forgot to mention, the chimney for your new wood burner may cost more than the stove…..yea, I guess we’d better figure in the infrastructure costs of burning wood… not just the fuel itself. Somewhere in my files I have a humorous piece that pokes fun at all of the hidden costs of burning wood. Conclusion is that it can’t pay!<br />
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On the other hand, maybe you are lucky and have some of these elements in place, left behind or second hand. That helps a lot. In any event, be sure to make safety first. None of this is worth it if you burn down the house. <br />
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<a href="http://www.cce.cornell.edu/Environment/Pages/HeatingwithWood.aspx">Cornell University has an excellent wood heat site</a>. And <a href="http://www.cce.cornell.edu/Environment/Documents/PDFs/Heating%20with%20Wood%20and%20Coal.pdf">Heating with Wood and Coal</a> from Northeast Cooperative Extension is a very comprehensive publication on the subject. <br />
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Finally, as I poked around on the web I came across a <a href="http://gowood.blogspot.com/2012/12/real-firewood-stacking.html">fantastic blog on wood call GoWood</a>. Where? At Penn State! Written by Chuck Ray, Associate Professor of Wood Operations Research at Penn State, this site looks at many aspects of wood uses. Makes sense. We are in Penn’s Woods, after all. Chuck is a prolific blogger and brings many interesting facts and insights to the subject of wood. Lots of cool video links. Old and new. <br />
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I stumbled on Chuck’s blog as I was poking around the internet, trying to figure out a way to speed up wood drying. Remember that windfall from Super Storm Sandy? Yep, I have a lot of wood that is not dry enough to burn and I want to accelerate the process. Chuck, too. We both ended up exploring holzhausens. Wood houses, in German. All I can say is… check it out. Above is a picture of my first attempt at making a holzhausen. It's only 6 feet in diameter and about 5 feet tall. Time will tell how well it dries wood. I don’t care anymore; it’s the best lawn ornament I have. Chuck’s blog has a link to the best video I found on holzhausen construction as well as some amazing work of wood art form around the world. Go Wood!<br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-4157999960751673992012-10-01T13:42:00.001-04:002012-10-01T13:42:58.259-04:00Scarlet Oak Sawfly<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bOO_-LzWWLNeTx_G-vZKGH__K2O94u5RiniUeNIOi0xyVUdETDzU-M6GQJ0zS4ZOJffy6F-B3e-emDMt4OJ3DK9aNbLLLWHmNrHTHsSup_oO9jUBVt8jgFQInLRytD9M7j4gw1cpcyw/s1600/DSCF5814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" kea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bOO_-LzWWLNeTx_G-vZKGH__K2O94u5RiniUeNIOi0xyVUdETDzU-M6GQJ0zS4ZOJffy6F-B3e-emDMt4OJ3DK9aNbLLLWHmNrHTHsSup_oO9jUBVt8jgFQInLRytD9M7j4gw1cpcyw/s320/DSCF5814.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">skeletonized oak leaf</td></tr>
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“What’s up with the oaks?” or “Are my oak trees are dying?” were common questions from residents in the Hilltown/Perkasie/Bedminster area this year. Symptoms included whitening in the tops of pin oaks and, on closer examination, leaves that had been “skeletonized”. This means that all of the soft parts of the plant tissue were gone but the “bones’ remained… just the skeleton. <br />
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You might think, as I did originally, that the insect called Oak Leaf Skeletonizer was the culprit. But a conversation with Penn State entomologist Greg Hoover led to the conclusion that this was another insect, <a href="http://bugs.osu.edu/bugdoc/Shetlar/factsheet/ornamental/FSoakslug.htm">Scarlet Oak Sawfly</a>. Both insects skeletonize leaves but Scarlet Oak Sawfly does not leave tell-tale pupal cases on the leaves as does the Oak Leaf Skeletonizer. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH283FlAs5j-LgHhTSXxoxoJam8IGBAPTamvp2jQQ402QgIvV9IEB6TMM80XDjcgR6Run6QO67_a9zSL6ip90XNn_BrGxjU2bNKuI9KoIpNCZo_T2175WGW7ixL_6ygEZYJ803vdnpGog/s1600/DSCF5810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" kea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH283FlAs5j-LgHhTSXxoxoJam8IGBAPTamvp2jQQ402QgIvV9IEB6TMM80XDjcgR6Run6QO67_a9zSL6ip90XNn_BrGxjU2bNKuI9KoIpNCZo_T2175WGW7ixL_6ygEZYJ803vdnpGog/s320/DSCF5810.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pin oak injury from sawfly feeding</td></tr>
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The clincher was speaking with arborists Craig Brooks (Bedminster) and Bob McMullin (Doylestown). Both reported diagnosing the problem in the past two years. Craig and Bob are International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) certified arborists and excellent tree men. If you are looking of tree care, <a href="http://www.isa-arbor.com/publicOutreach/findATreeCareService/index.aspx">an ISA certified arborist is a really good idea</a>. <br />
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So, what will become of oaks infested with Scarlet oak sawfly? PSU’s Greg Hoover thinks that natural predators and parasites will begin to take control and reduce sawfly populations to levels that are almost harmless. Defoliation is the issue here. The question is: “How much foliage can a tree stand to lose?” Answer is: "Some, not too much, not too often." It is not a black and white situation. Many factors such as overall tree condition, amount of foliage loss and site factors come in to play. It is unlikely that partial defoliation in one year will be a life or death situation for an oak. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sawfly larva feeding </td></tr>
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However, major defoliation in consecutive years is a problem. Think about gypsy moth damage. Similar scenario here. Except that Scarlet oak sawfly has two generations, one in early summer and one in late summer. Insecticide options exist, but the bugs habit of feeding from the tops of trees downward can present logistical problems... how to get good spray coverage at the top of a 50 foot tree? If necessary, arborists have the tools to do the job. It is not a do-it-yourself situation. <br />
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Personally, I have my bet on Mother Nature to come to the rescue. Sure, She can be unpredictable and is habitually late, but population spikes of one bug eventually result in their enemies coming along to even things out. <br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-77327669738941969072012-06-19T17:31:00.001-04:002012-06-20T15:48:46.431-04:00Fresh From Bucks County Farms<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjUp1__5jTQzgYCCmq45uz-in8Nr6_GiFjJHd9KNtUe1DdbKiq0PiidYE7oU5FwVNz51p09QZHvoPJDs1kcwSG7ALma3lO3FswPsEcz3lGqD5ySVtpeAzO6fTxUQWMNuHka70qaoAUw3I/s1600/2012+FFF+Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" rca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjUp1__5jTQzgYCCmq45uz-in8Nr6_GiFjJHd9KNtUe1DdbKiq0PiidYE7oU5FwVNz51p09QZHvoPJDs1kcwSG7ALma3lO3FswPsEcz3lGqD5ySVtpeAzO6fTxUQWMNuHka70qaoAUw3I/s200/2012+FFF+Cover.jpg" width="135" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">Summer has arrived … and so have seasonal fruit and vegetables. Blueberries are “in” and peaches are not far behind. Raspberries are about to ripen. Get them while you can! The first tomatoes, planted early in greenhouses, are about to become plentiful, too. Some local sweet corn for the 4th of July? You bet. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">"New" potatoes and peas</span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">You can find a source for all of these favorite produce items in the 2012 edition of <em><strong>Fresh From Bucks County Farms</strong>,</em> a directory of local farms, farm markets and CSA’s published by Penn State Extension. Copies are available on request by calling 215-345-3283 or at <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/bucks/news/spotlight/201cfresh-from-bucks-county-farms-farm-market-directory-2012">this site</a></span><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">. Copies are also available in any Bucks County library. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">While peaches, sweet corn and tomatoes get all of the attention, there is a lot more to like in the local food scene. “Foodies” have been enjoying garlic scapes for the last 3 weeks. The strawberry crop was exceptionally early and delicious this year. If you have never enjoyed “new” potatoes and peas a visit to the local farmers market will introduce you to a June treat. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: black; font-size: large;">Looking of something special? European-style artisanal cheese? Champagne? Duck eggs? Lamb? Grass-fed beef? You will find it all in <strong><em>Fresh From Bucks County Farms</em></strong>. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: cyan; color: black; font-size: large;"></span></div>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-57079983828712388652012-05-03T13:01:00.001-04:002012-05-03T13:01:53.041-04:00Start Farming<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High tunnel greenhouses extend the farming season</td></tr>
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This is a gardening blog so you might think farming is not up your alley. But as gardeners, you have a lot in common with farmers. You watch the weather more closely than most people. You have an intimate relationship with insects… some friendly, some adversarial. You grow more of your own food than most folks. You know the names of beet varieties… because you grow them. <br />
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And I’ll bet that some of you have farming fantasies. You can see yourself selling stuff at the local farmers market rather than buying. You stare at tractors, longingly. The smell of manure is like perfume. As you might suspect, you are in a minority. So are farmers. Census data says that about one percent of the U.S. population identifies its occupation as farming. And that group is aging. About 40 percent are over 55. There is legitimate concern about where the next generation of farmers will come from. <br />
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What’s Penn State got to do with it? Well, as many of you know, we’ve been in the farming education business <a href="http://live.psu.edu/story/5982">since about 1862</a>. Many of today’s farmers were not born on farms. They followed a dream of farming and made it a reality. I can quickly name a Bucks County dairy farmer who grew up in Philadelphia, a vegetable grower who was an electrician and a commercial fruit producer who is a nurse. Each of them would tell you that Penn State has played a role in their success. <br />
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Recently, a federal grant was initiated specifically to help beginning farmers get started. Tianna Dupont, Penn State Extension Educator, is heading up the <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/start-farming">Start Farming program in Southeastern Pennsylvania</a>. In the last two years, this program has reached more than 950 new and beginning farmers through 36 courses with names such as: ABCs of Beekeeping, Exploring the Small Farm Dream, Pasture School, Sheep Short Course, Introduction to Organic Vegetable Production and Small Scale Poultry. About half of the participants had no farm background or farming experience prior to taking the courses. These courses are ideal for working people, those between jobs, folks nearing retirement, and others who cannot devote time to full-time undergraduate course work, but still want to receive high quality education in agriculture. <br />
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For those who are ready to take on four years of study, <a href="http://agsci.psu.edu/futurestudents/academics/majors/all-majors">Penn State has about 20 majors in agriculture</a>. And they are popular! From the years 20005 to 2010, College of Ag enrollment at Penn State was up 42 percent. To see what the curriculum in agriculture looks like at Penn State <a href="http://agsci.psu.edu/futurestudents">see this</a>.<br />
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It is interesting that at a time when concerns about where the next generation of farmers will come from, enthusiasm for food production is sky high….from both consumers and prospective producers. Want to start farming? See what Penn State has to offer. <br />
<br />Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-75515796767961256722012-03-14T16:19:00.003-04:002012-03-16T11:08:30.427-04:00Yes, Kiss Your Ash Goodbye<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBw95WgwCTLRAWJZV9P6-yBNEl_BheO7aQciC6vB0Ww8dG3ZX3zQg9sCBCteAPzCj5Rl0p91L2NqwML5M5pnUffLEoj-IKDaHvWep-VfHMzcQ3oHA-zwbgqAbpvSubuimIJGyROpw9WM/s1600/EAB+GAlleries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBw95WgwCTLRAWJZV9P6-yBNEl_BheO7aQciC6vB0Ww8dG3ZX3zQg9sCBCteAPzCj5Rl0p91L2NqwML5M5pnUffLEoj-IKDaHvWep-VfHMzcQ3oHA-zwbgqAbpvSubuimIJGyROpw9WM/s320/EAB+GAlleries.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emerald Ash Borer larval feeding injury</td></tr>
</tbody></table>About nine months ago, this blog described purple traps hung throughout the Delaware Valley which are designed to detect an important pest … Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). The traps were not successful in detecting this insect but a sharp-eyed arborist was. Last Friday I got a call to look at some ash trees that were ravaged by woodpecker feeding. Beneath the bark, signs of larval tunneling were obvious. A few days later, Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture entomologists visited the site and verified that this was indeed Emerald Ash Borer.<br />
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Bad news for ash trees. <br />
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You can <a href="http://www.buckshort.blogspot.com/2011/06/kiss-your-ash-goodbye.html">read the blog of June 11</a> last year and get the story … nothing has changed except that a detection has been made about 100 miles east (Warrington, PA, Bucks County) of the leading edge of the Pennsylvania EAB infestation. About the only good news is that a tremendous amount has been learned about this insect in the last 10 years. <a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer">See this Penn State site</a> or this <a href="http://www.emeraldashborer.info/">National EAB site</a> for solid, research-based information. The PSU <a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/frequently-asked-questions">“Frequently asked questions”</a> feature is a good starting place. <br />
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For tree owners, the time has come to consider the fate of your ash. Depending on who’s counting, this insect has killed between 40 and 50 million trees between Michigan and….. Warrington. It is in 15 states and two Canadian provinces. It’s a tree killer. Infested ash die. <br />
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Individual trees can be protected with insecticides. Some can be applied by homeowners but, from what I read, the best product is available to arborists only and has to be injected. Upside? Two years of control. <br />
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Another hopeful thought is that entomologists now have several parasitoids, (bug killing bugs) that may provide some control of EAB… and perhaps the site recently detected would be a release site for them. That would be nice. Cross your fingers. <br />
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But don’t expect predators to catch up to EAB in Bucks County before a lot of damage is done. For now, <a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/factsheets/EAB2942.pdf/view">learn to recognize ash</a> . Think about whether it is really important to preserve those that you see. It is not practical to treat every ash tree. Remember, treatment provides only temporary protection, not immunity or a cure. <br />
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Those considering <a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/factsheets/EAB2955.pdf/view">do-it-yourself treatment</a> will find instructions here <br />
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Anyone following the story of Emerald Ash Borer knew that it was only a matter of time before this insect would be found killing ash trees in eastern Pennsylvania. Maybe this knowledge lessened the blow a bit. Also, those who closely observe tree and pest interactions know that this is one of many associations between an insect (or disease pathogen) that results in catastrophic impact on a species. See Dutch Elm Disease, Chestnut Blight or Hemlock Wooly Adelgid. More recently, Thousand Cankers Disease of Black Walnut. <br />
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I never paid much attention to ash trees until EAB arrived in Pennsylvania five years ago. Now I see them everywhere. Not for long.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-92175008642577400232012-01-26T11:47:00.000-05:002012-01-26T11:47:37.141-05:00The Raised Bed Club<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUAChh2xz1Dt-lVgT5_i8d5xnSc65LONT_aC5sFTgxlGfoj6cmeGZLLXk8cnpdvFVkEqcbOKo3KmCU-H7fv0i8Jfqc3oyZyg9P8VlzuOzm7vQil-L_J5E0Glxiz_PIzFtZI-Cc9GqJ4c/s1600/raised+bedsmall.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUAChh2xz1Dt-lVgT5_i8d5xnSc65LONT_aC5sFTgxlGfoj6cmeGZLLXk8cnpdvFVkEqcbOKo3KmCU-H7fv0i8Jfqc3oyZyg9P8VlzuOzm7vQil-L_J5E0Glxiz_PIzFtZI-Cc9GqJ4c/s320/raised+bedsmall.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">My pal Harry called recently to tell me that he had located some rough cut, white oak boards to build raised garden beds. We discussed board dimensions, how to fasten them together, what to fill the new beds with. I knew that Harry was about to become a member of the Raised Bed Club. I have been a member for about 15 years and it is probably the single most productive gardening step I’ve ever taken. I’ll outline some of the benefits and details here. If you want to take your vegetable gardening to another level, consider raised beds. </div><br />
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So, what’s the big deal with raised beds? For many of us (and certainly my original motivation) it is to gain the ability to garden in poorly drained soils… or to get access to garden soil earlier in the season. Raising the soil profile even a few inches creates gravitational pull on water that leaves it better drained. Many folks think that it is the media in the bed that is creating all of that drainage, and to certain extent, it does play a role. But even raising the existing soil on a site improves drainage dramatically. And if you are worrying about the task of importing a lot of stuff to fill you new raised bed… stop. You can accomplish a lot by simply using the existing soil. <br />
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Now, to talk out of both sides of my mouth, as they say…. let’s not ignore the potential to really improve soil texture and structure by amending that stuff we’ll fill those beds with. If you can add good organic matter to your existing garden soil in a raised bed you will see additional benefits. Where do you go for good organic matter? It’s everywhere. If you live in Southeastern Pennsylvania you are within an hour’s drive of some of the best compost money can buy. And sometimes it’s free! Spent mushroom compost is a beautiful thing. Many garden centers sell it. As you get closer to Kennet Square in Chester County it becomes more plentiful and cheaper. Since this stuff is often a waste product of the mushroom industry, there are mountains of it. It is simply the growing medium that several crops of mushrooms have been living in. It is high in organic matter and nutrients. Mix about 25 % mushroom compost, by volume, into even the crummiest soil and you have a decent growing media. Sure, do a soil test after you make this mix and adjust as necessary but that mushroom soil is nutrient rich and near neutral pH. <br />
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Composted leaves are stockpiled in many communities. While these will be less nutrient rich than mushroom compost, they do provide wonderful soil textural qualities. Again, adding about 25 %, by volume, is a good start. <br />
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Manure is magnificent. Find one of those old barnyard piles that has been ageing like a fine wine and you have hit the jackpot. <br />
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OK you get the idea. Find some organic matter. Amend your existing soil by incorporating about 25 % of what you can find with the existing soil. Then soil test and adjust fertility as needed. This will get you started. As time goes by you will fine tune that media in the beds. It will settle and shrink over time so yearly additions are needed. <br />
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Some garden centers and mulch suppliers sell a garden soil mix in bulk, by the cubic yard. Most will deliver. Tell them your bed dimensions and they will tell you how much you need. A bed that measures 8 feet by 3 feet by 9 inches will require 18 cubic feet… less than a cubic yard (27 square feet). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-8C0qY1odytZDeQu2mrhEsOc76pgDxthKLJmUR-V-cCQkGROd0bN3hkYOWJFG_SNimmJs18-ABgoLEjpgF5i-LUFB6H9XKMOyJIPTg7-Ka7UjO5r1dv1bRIoQk7J3ev_hbf1ow9AdY2Q/s1600/GarlicStones.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-8C0qY1odytZDeQu2mrhEsOc76pgDxthKLJmUR-V-cCQkGROd0bN3hkYOWJFG_SNimmJs18-ABgoLEjpgF5i-LUFB6H9XKMOyJIPTg7-Ka7UjO5r1dv1bRIoQk7J3ev_hbf1ow9AdY2Q/s320/GarlicStones.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock raised bed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Wooden boards are probably material most people use to construct beds but many things can do the job. Rocks work. So do concrete blocks. I suppose you could use the fancy fake rock wall materials that are so popular. Metal, plastic, you name it. In fact, a raised bed can be borderless if you’d like. But the tidiness of wooden raised beds is nice. What kind of wood? Since there will definitely be contact with soil, a rot resistant wood is important if you want the beds to last more than a couple of years. Pressure treated wood sold these days does not contain arsenic. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqSTnGmy2uLl5NvTU72e4oRfhisldJEPlx2waErKgvSA5Far_ERA_Mk2OK-XvO3wAahhjoxx63rYC-nG-pj8Mh7X1nR3hstuBrvFjV4VlLfSHdQ6ZhNOSgcgZ27W_hqxGgbcY_fCXJIs/s1600/no+sides+bed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqSTnGmy2uLl5NvTU72e4oRfhisldJEPlx2waErKgvSA5Far_ERA_Mk2OK-XvO3wAahhjoxx63rYC-nG-pj8Mh7X1nR3hstuBrvFjV4VlLfSHdQ6ZhNOSgcgZ27W_hqxGgbcY_fCXJIs/s320/no+sides+bed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borderless Bed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Copper is used instead to resist the rots. Got old pressure treated wood with arsenic? There is pretty good evidence that this does not pose a great threat, but if you are going to spend one moment worrying about it (or trying to convince someone else who eats from your garden that all is fine by explaining the chemical qualities of arsenic) maybe it is a better idea to make a set of stairs out of those old pressure treated boards. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDl5S4dPEM-ZpNs5f05ZLPi9XX9u0wCnUHtaavWGTUTomcwRNg9fLcv5cwR1FRJyMdpMg6BGqxuLvCu8GHjZWPbh-_5rZut88ewsZHQ_TtrNHT2mJMXzZpUBJnGPXuOtCdHUgm1vdYv4/s1600/ends+butted+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDl5S4dPEM-ZpNs5f05ZLPi9XX9u0wCnUHtaavWGTUTomcwRNg9fLcv5cwR1FRJyMdpMg6BGqxuLvCu8GHjZWPbh-_5rZut88ewsZHQ_TtrNHT2mJMXzZpUBJnGPXuOtCdHUgm1vdYv4/s320/ends+butted+.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Locust Beds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Or… you can use naturally rot resistant wood. Black Locust is probably the most rot resistant species you can find locally. White oak is OK. If you have unlimited funds, Cedar and Redwood are sold. You’ll find locust and white oak at Pennsylvania sawmills. Yes, there are still sawmills around. I have 15 year old white oak beds that are just now breaking down. I expect the locust beds to be heirlooms. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gYfzXKkvIagV6UdLHgzFnqIlLC5q1NuOtyKImfUVZco6acVzX1CN4lDQr3syp84cTk4p0it-uqQcQDLTU5cAn_MmL7E0nu47JYGXeYgjeR1TpBvceFkZMgrw5bWytcZskQYuYGiQV2U/s1600/warped+ends.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gYfzXKkvIagV6UdLHgzFnqIlLC5q1NuOtyKImfUVZco6acVzX1CN4lDQr3syp84cTk4p0it-uqQcQDLTU5cAn_MmL7E0nu47JYGXeYgjeR1TpBvceFkZMgrw5bWytcZskQYuYGiQV2U/s320/warped+ends.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warped bed Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The bed length is up to you but the longer board the more expensive they get. You can butt ends of individual beds together, as needed, if you have a big garden and want lots of gardening capacity. Bed width… you want to be able to reach across the bed from either side. Three feet wide is good. Wider is a stretch. Literally. If you don’t mnd working from both sides of a bed make them five feet wide. Board width…a full one inch board width will serve you well.<br />
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Locust is like concrete and must be pre-drilled in order to fasten end together. Screws are better than nails. Exterior grade screws are best. Plan to assemble you beds immediately after purchasing the boards at a sawmill, unless the boards have been properly dried, otherwise warping will make this impossible later. <br />
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How deep should the bed boards be? Six to eight inches is enough. More is a better but the boards will get expensive. Want deeper beds? Make them the identical dimensions and stack them on top of each other. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirv-Ar3qIqb4dyk11Ugm-ylmGMyrhYS6OHt6REZ2C0qSxd6WnS9kI0FdvXEu80pXfmQmHE1FXuCb9CIRVJzk2y1IztQU1BmTUni62o3epc0selvfrY1Hp41sa9UY8A9kVCzfweXgoqvU/s1600/raied+bed+w+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirv-Ar3qIqb4dyk11Ugm-ylmGMyrhYS6OHt6REZ2C0qSxd6WnS9kI0FdvXEu80pXfmQmHE1FXuCb9CIRVJzk2y1IztQU1BmTUni62o3epc0selvfrY1Hp41sa9UY8A9kVCzfweXgoqvU/s320/raied+bed+w+cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoops and Plastic make a Mini Greenhouse out of a Raised Bed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It is hard to believe that raising your garden surface less than a foot would yield huge benefits…. But it does. You’ll find gardening gets easier and your efforts are more productive. Your fingers are all you need to plant and weed. You will probably find yourself making low covered tunnels to extend the growing season and seeding crops like lettuce in solid beds instead of rows. You’ll make a cold frame instantly by covering a raised bed with a discarded window. You’ll be gardening earlier and later in the season… harvesting lettuce for Thanksgiving… or Christmas!<br />
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Ready for a new gardening adventure? Make a couple of raised beds. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJyVYyRPq2fR1ZUJcZ8FebT63RwO0DL-GK1Y-XiCG5ZGWIiGcFMXSX9WF2eK1KPeEx1-flg-oh9UpOI1gzoXIDhz2kQ4yRjFGb0CBv36GZk4GCTccbWNeA1HerzwE6dt-TUdGjTIKnKY/s1600/cold+frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJyVYyRPq2fR1ZUJcZ8FebT63RwO0DL-GK1Y-XiCG5ZGWIiGcFMXSX9WF2eK1KPeEx1-flg-oh9UpOI1gzoXIDhz2kQ4yRjFGb0CBv36GZk4GCTccbWNeA1HerzwE6dt-TUdGjTIKnKY/s320/cold+frame.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disarded window makes a cold frame out of a raised bed!</td></tr>
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For a nice publication on the subject, <a href="http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6985">see this from Missouri xtension.</a>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-54638026875773729842011-12-02T10:16:00.003-05:002011-12-02T10:22:48.832-05:00Plan and Plant <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4Ae3wZrVDPtExB1v_XasdQw68lMtDEDSzsmPsAw3EbjaG1EgkNXhJ0aOruaaPzp2-wu_qD3GuV8ETpX9kFtxnX2woiwiBdapdkAltBnByLH1zxTklK4eRCIj_eoVVXnC9tqOUS78ybM/s1600/bent+winterberries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4Ae3wZrVDPtExB1v_XasdQw68lMtDEDSzsmPsAw3EbjaG1EgkNXhJ0aOruaaPzp2-wu_qD3GuV8ETpX9kFtxnX2woiwiBdapdkAltBnByLH1zxTklK4eRCIj_eoVVXnC9tqOUS78ybM/s320/bent+winterberries.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winterberry holly bent badly in the October snow storm. It recovered. </td></tr>
</tbody></table> What to do in the yard and garden in December? While we might putter around with the compost pile, rake up the last leaves or finish clean up from that October snow storm, the list of possible gardening tasks is pretty short. Now is a great time to begin planning for next year’s spring planting…..especially tree and shrub planting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHOCZq9yobnoqNkBerKLfmhPZyZtOZ-8JsPeMWiFvWOlQ3bVIT8Ddoq9GCxZsuCIss4gcXGwpXK_baWz_gtB77AZwD4RKLMV_uxggBcB2YiOi29aukKc4dFK9_fo1R6toAc5KFCr5PZg/s1600/broken+zelkova.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHOCZq9yobnoqNkBerKLfmhPZyZtOZ-8JsPeMWiFvWOlQ3bVIT8Ddoq9GCxZsuCIss4gcXGwpXK_baWz_gtB77AZwD4RKLMV_uxggBcB2YiOi29aukKc4dFK9_fo1R6toAc5KFCr5PZg/s320/broken+zelkova.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Japanese Zelkova after the storm... beyond repair</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Many of us have been forced to think about tree replacement as a result of the late October Snow storm. Six to eight inches of snow applied to trees full of leaves was devastating. On the other hand…the weaklings were weeded out!<br />
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Southeastern Pennsylvania certainly could use more trees. In fact, research done in 2002 showed an alarming loss of tree cover in the metro Philly area. In response, Tree Vitalize was born. This private/public partnership has the goal of establishing one million new trees. Quoting from the Tree Vitalize website... <em>“An additional goal is to train 10,000 volunteers in basic tree biology and tree care to assist their communities in establishing and maintaining new plantings. Ultimately, the goal of TreeVitalize is to establish strong urban forestry partnerships in all 14 Pennsylvania metropolitan areas and to build local capacity for sustaining the urban forest resource.”</em> If I am reading the website correctly 296,952 trees have been planted so far. It is a wonderful program. Check it out at <a href="http://www.treevitalize.net/">http://www.treevitalize.net/</a> . The volunteer portion of the program is called Tree Tenders and training is ongoing in many communities. See <a href="http://www.pennsylvaniahorticulturalsociety.org/phlgreen/tree-training.html">this</a> for details.<br />
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Tree Vitalize and Tree Tenders are great programs for communities that want to establish trees. They are not designed to assist private property owners.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymlS_jo_QLzbhIkAJWdQiVlfhtJ2gaQIq7qCeyNMWfem7-aHGgjA4FvZssH3vRC9GU-sDLQsNFWQUA1FxGVCXC9tKxo04T8mhPyOCcnTT3svUbho0vPK3LexFayZDTCqXUESo9XJxv-w/s1600/tree+planting+at+arboretum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymlS_jo_QLzbhIkAJWdQiVlfhtJ2gaQIq7qCeyNMWfem7-aHGgjA4FvZssH3vRC9GU-sDLQsNFWQUA1FxGVCXC9tKxo04T8mhPyOCcnTT3svUbho0vPK3LexFayZDTCqXUESo9XJxv-w/s320/tree+planting+at+arboretum.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bucks County Master Gardeners plant bare-root Tree Vitalize trees</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Penn State Master Gardeners have planted about 75 Tree Vitalize trees at Neshaminy Manor Center, home of the Penn State Extension office. We’re calling our planting The Almshouse Arboretum and it consists of Tree Vitalize trees, some existing trees, as well as specimens we have added on our own. Most of the trees are labeled so you can do a self-guided tour. Or, contact us to have a Master Gardner give you or your group a personalized tour.<br />
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OK. Back to your yard….Maybe you have other reasons to plant trees and shrubs. Still trying to sell that house? Realtors will tell you that well landscape properties have exceptional value. Whatever your motivation, tree planting is a good idea. So where to start….<br />
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Penn State has lots of help. <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/sc215.pdf">Trees for Pennsylvania Landscape</a>s and <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uj257.pdf">Shrubs for Pennsylvania Landscapes</a> are two excellent references. They describe great plants and categorize them by size and other characteristics such as flowering habit, fall foliage, etc. <br />
Now is a great time to consider where to locate new landscape plants. Your local garden center/nursery usually has a landscape designer on staff to talk this through with you. Check out the Penn State publication <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs23.pdf">Landscaping Home Grounds</a> for some basic principles of landscape design and you’ll be a step ahead when you begin this conversation. <br />
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Finally…the actual planting. You can let the professionals do this or tackle it yourself. <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf">Planting and After Care of Community Trees</a> will give you good guidance. Or, for a great, short video on the tree planting process, just watch the video produced by the Penn State Master Gardeners of Berks County at <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/berks/programs/master-gardener/how-to-videos/how-to-plant-a-tree">this site</a>. <br />
Alright, you’ve got all winter to read, study, talk and plan for tree and shrub planting this spring. Unique, beautiful, long-lived, wildlife-supporting plants are ready and waiting for new homes. It’s up to you to do your part.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-17824862331674079822011-08-31T16:22:00.002-04:002011-08-31T16:35:44.626-04:00Thousand Cankers Disease threatens Black Walnut.. and some businesses<a class="highslide" getparams="null" href="http://www.forestryimages.org/images/768x512/5406067.jpg"><img alt="Thousand Cankers Disease (Geosmithia morbida ) on black walnut (Juglans nigra ) - 5406067" border="0" src="http://www.forestryimages.org/images/384x256/5406067.jpg" title="Thousand Cankers Disease (Geosmithia morbida ) on black walnut (Juglans nigra ) - 5406067" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A species is at stake. Businesses are at stake. Both may survive but damage has already been done and the future is uncertain. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Black Walnut, <em>Juglans nigra</em>, is an important tree species in the eastern United States. In July of this year, Thousand Cankers Disease (TCD) was detected in Pennsylvania for the first time. We now join two other states east of the Mississippi with confirmed cases of a disease which is deadly to black walnut. A quarantine has been established by the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture in an effort to slow the spread of the disease. The quarantine prohibits the movement of walnut out of Bucks County, the only county in Pennsylvania where detection has occurred. All firewood and wood chips are also subject to the quarantine since segregation of walnut from these potential infection sources cannot be assured. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Here are some questions and answers about Thousand Cankers Disease</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. Where did it come from?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. New Mexico, California, Colorado, Oregon, Washington and a few other western states began detecting the disease about ten years ago. In 2010 it was found in Tennessee... in 2011 Virginia and Pennsylvania. It is likely that movement of walnut logs or other walnut wood brought the infestation from the west to the native range of black walnut…. the eastern United States. Both the walnut twig beetle, <em>Pityophthorus juglandis</em> and the fungus <em>Geosmithia morbida</em> which are involved in the disease, are thought to be native to the southwestern United States where they originally infested/infected other <em>Juglans</em> species. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. How are black walnut trees affected?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. A beetle about the size of a sesame seed, called the Walnut Twig Beetle, bores into trees. Actually thousands of beetles infest individual trees. The beetle’s larvae tunnel in the bark and at the same time infect the tree with a fungus which kills the plant tissue. These dead areas are called cankers. Many cankers combine to girdle and kill the stems. The numerous feeding sites and cankers give rise to the name Thousand Cankers Disease. Infested walnut trees exhibit yellowing, wilting and dieback in the crown or upper branches of the tree. Within 10 year of infestation, and three years from the time symptoms develop, the tree dies. The best diagnostic sign will be numerous tiny (2 mm) holes in the bark of branches. Beneath the bark, darkly stained, cankered, wood indicates the activity of the fungus. Most <em>Juglans</em> species are susceptible to TCD but Black Walnut appears to be most severely affected. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. Are there treatments to cure affected trees or prevent infestation of healthy trees?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. Not at this time. The nature and habits of the beetle present a great challenge to those who want to control this pest. For instance, adults are active from March through October and can fly 1-2 miles. Even if beetles are partially controlled, the fungus may still cause damage. Research is underway to better understand both the beetle and the fungus involved in the disease. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. Why has quarantine been established?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. The quarantine is an attempt to slow the spread of the disease and preserve this important tree species, both within Pennsylvania and also in states that are currently uninfested. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. What businesses are affected by the quarantine?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. It is unlawful to move any walnut wood (except kiln dried lumber or finished furniture) out of Bucks County. Since it is impractical to distinguish walnut from other wood in loads of firewood or wood chips, they are subject to the quarantine and may not be moved out of Bucks County. Walnut lumber is also quarantined unless it meets certain requirements including kiln drying. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. What is being done about the problem?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. A task force involving regulatory and research experts is creating an action plan to manage TCD in Pennsylvania. Compliance agreements with those affected by the quarantine are being investigated in an effort to find a way to allow them to continue business activities without presenting a threat to walnut outside of Bucks County. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q What do I do if I think my walnut trees have TCD?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. Collect a sample of branches with wilting and dieback symptoms. If they exhibit many tiny holes in them, contact Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture 1-866-253-7189 or </span><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/counties"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Penn State Extension</span></a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Q. How can I learn more about the disease and its symptoms?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A. Call (215-345-3283) for a fact sheet or see this </span><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/news/2011/housand-cankers-disease-tcd-detected-in-pa"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">website</span></a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In summary, a new disease of Black Walnut threatens an important tree species. Sadly, we’ve seen situations like this before…. Chestnut Blight, Dutch Elm Disease (DED), Hemlock Woolly Adelgid. Perhaps Dutch Elm Disease is most similar because in both cases a beetle vectors a fungal pathogen. Decades after Dutch Elm Disease was introduced, we still have some elms, but the once loved American Elm has been seriously impacted. Many differences exist between DED and TCD but its probably a good place to start as we contemplate the effect of TCD in Pennsylvania. How the story of Thousand Cankers Disease of Black Walnut will play out remains to be seen. </span><br />
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Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-59890114484941898532011-08-08T14:08:00.000-04:002011-08-08T14:08:27.183-04:00Hot summer weather means tasty produce<br />
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Sunshine makes sugar. So it should not be a surprise that peaches, melons, sweet corn and other summer produce is near perfection in this hot growing season. Dry conditions are a challenge for all farmers and we certainly could use a few more timely rainfall events. But there is no doubt that the abundant sunshine we have experienced so far this year is making for especially sweet fruits and vegetables. <br />
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Most folks know that Bucks County still has a viable farming community. But others are surprise to learn that we produce some of the best peaches and nectarines money can buy. A tree ripened peach beats those that are shipped in any day. Same story with melons. A cantaloupe that fully ripens on the vine simply tastes better than those that are harvested for wholesale shipment because they are allowed to continue to accumulate sugar. Same story for many other crops we enjoy. So, buying fresh, local produce often means better quality for you. <br />
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August is the prime time peaches, melons, tomatoes and sweet corn. While some early season varieties are available in July, the main crop comes in August. So these crops are in abundance now. Get them while they are in season locally. Our <a href="http://www.buckscounty.org/Visitors/Farms/FarmFresh2011.pdf">Fresh form Bucks County Farms directory</a> can lead you to dozens of locations where you’ll find these and other treats. <br />
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What’s up next? Grape growers know that hot dry season mean exceptional grape and wine quality. Could 2011 be an exceptional vintage year? Too soon to tell but it’s something to look forward to….. along with pumpkins and apples… fresh from Bucks County Farms. <br />
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Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-11670221883229638852011-06-21T15:39:00.006-04:002011-06-22T10:28:49.965-04:00Kiss Your Ash Goodbye?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfTjLmz5NJ2auzxF96muPkFyy71kmBMW1z2DweuI65_9TxBAJUbONxnrrVfzw642Z1eh3VFItIfksrOlR3e3q7IRYrcEALHJCpxcdntCjbU9s4PGoxkovyelHZyAC6pN0ifgkzOiIieg/s1600/EAB+trap.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfTjLmz5NJ2auzxF96muPkFyy71kmBMW1z2DweuI65_9TxBAJUbONxnrrVfzw642Z1eh3VFItIfksrOlR3e3q7IRYrcEALHJCpxcdntCjbU9s4PGoxkovyelHZyAC6pN0ifgkzOiIieg/s400/EAB+trap.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">By now many Southeastern Pennsylvania residents have noticed bright purple boxes hanging along roadsides. Tree lovers may have noticed that those gizmos are hung in ash trees. They are traps designed to detect the arrival of the latest invasive tree pest, Emerald ash borer (EAB), <em>Agrilus planipennis</em>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Emerald ash borer has been moving east from Michigan since 2002, where is it was first detected in the U.S. EAB is native to Eastern Russia and Asia and was probably introduced on wooden pallets or other wooden packing material. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was found on the western border of Pennsylvania in 2007 and central PA in 2009. For more info about EAB </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer"><span style="font-size: large;">see this Penn State site</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. States that have lived with the infestation longer, such as Ohio, </span><a href="http://ashalert.osu.edu/Secondary/secondary.asp?id=46"><span style="font-size: large;">also have excellent information</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. For some nice color pictures of the insect and its damage, </span><a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/factsheets/EAB2938.pdf/view"><span style="font-size: large;">see this</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have very little good news about this insect but read on if you are still interested. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>… No Emerald Ash Borers have been detected in Southeast PA as of June 21, 2011.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… Expect a detection any day now.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>…Only ash trees will be affected by this insect.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>…. EAB has killed about 40 million ash trees so far. All ash species are susceptible and EAB kills most ash in its path. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><strong>Good news</strong></u>… Ash trees make up small percentage (3-4%) of the trees in Pennsylvania.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… Southeast Pennsylvania has a much larger percentage of ash. Ever since I learned about EAB, I have been impressed with the number of ash in Bucks County. <a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/factsheets/EAB2942.pdf/view">See this</a> to learn what ash looks like. I <a href="http://buckshort.blogspot.com/2008/07/watch-your-ash.html">blogged about this in 2008</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>…. Ash can be protected from EAB infestation. Several insecticide options are available. Arborists are prepared to do the work. Do-it-yourself is possible. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>…. Insecticide applications ain’t cheap and will require annual re-treatment with most products. Also, it will be impractical to treat all but the most important ornamental trees. Woodland ash are going to be toast. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>…Ash makes excellent firewood.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… The cost of tree take-downs is significant</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>… Woodpeckers eat EAB larvae.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… Not fast enough to prevent tree death.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>…Entomologists are working to introduce parasites and predators to control EAB</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>.. .This stuff takes a long time and the beast is at the door. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>....Land Grant Universities in Ohio, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin and our Own Penn State have posted a tremendous amount of excellent EAB information. See above. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… none of it will stop expanding range of this destructive insect</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Good news</u></strong>…. Many wonderful tree species remain in our woods and landscapes</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><strong><u>Bad news</u></strong>… You can kiss you ash goodbye.</span>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-9245629694041496662011-05-18T14:49:00.004-04:002011-05-18T14:57:59.546-04:00Fresh From Bucks County Farms<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Dh8Ic3x4D32jOHOVtI-FzdpczevrZg4pRP2pZygU2v_AXKolLecm7Gi_3dd7yOF-UTxAdNmbioEZCSlgglrwj8OHLMYtvVyyakJeNiR-PkspOAnfopK60JidOjlfQq7SNwjOTdd1yZU/s1600/BucksFFFCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" j8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Dh8Ic3x4D32jOHOVtI-FzdpczevrZg4pRP2pZygU2v_AXKolLecm7Gi_3dd7yOF-UTxAdNmbioEZCSlgglrwj8OHLMYtvVyyakJeNiR-PkspOAnfopK60JidOjlfQq7SNwjOTdd1yZU/s400/BucksFFFCover.jpg" width="260" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Just in time for the start of the 2011 growing season, Fresh From Bucks County Farms, a local listing of 75 places where you can buy local produce is available from Penn State Extension. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This popular guide identifies farmers markets, CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture), and roadside markets where hungry consumers will find locally produced fruits, vegetables, meats, eggs, wine, cheese and other agricultural products. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fresh From Farms is available at all Bucks County libraries and on request from Penn State Extension- Bucks County by calling 215-345-3283. It’s on the web at </span><a href="http://www.buckscounty.org/Visitors/Farms/FarmFresh2011.pdf"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">http://www.buckscounty.org/Visitors/Farms/FarmFresh2011.pdf</span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Strawberries are a popular, season-starting crop that is abundant locally. Usually beginning in late May, some growers already have early production for sale. Pick-Your Own- PYO is a great way to enjoy a farm experience and harvest berries at a great price. Fresh Form Farms list more than a dozen strawberry growers, most of which offer PYO. Get ‘em while they last… strawberries are only in season until late June. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Community Farmers markets are another great way for consumers to connect with a variety of produce. Doylestown, Ottsville, Lower Makefield, Langhorne, New Hope, Plumsteadville, Wrightstown and Feasterville each has a weekly market. At least one of these markets is open Tuesday through Saturday. Each market has a unique blend of vendors. Find locations and detail in Fresh From Farms.</span>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-75090078908902626702011-03-28T15:46:00.001-04:002011-03-28T15:50:44.027-04:0010 Steps Towards a Better Vegetable Garden<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfDJbiIfFJKdZJ2npCnPHt-iayVkHXWwNeGxH7Uu86ihq2Oti3M9pM30dKFnXt_RByhtYsU3jefe1V9DNDecdgFkswsmJ6fwhwhUAKBma5zFfe46je-AF2t4Q_CFsqfQ2nvEgxppF21U/s1600/Soil+kit+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfDJbiIfFJKdZJ2npCnPHt-iayVkHXWwNeGxH7Uu86ihq2Oti3M9pM30dKFnXt_RByhtYsU3jefe1V9DNDecdgFkswsmJ6fwhwhUAKBma5zFfe46je-AF2t4Q_CFsqfQ2nvEgxppF21U/s320/Soil+kit+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Step one – Soil test. Yes, this may be getting repetitious for anyone who follows Penn State Extension but getting handle on basics soil fertility is so fundamental that is really needs to be Step One. A Penn State soil test will provide information about soil pH as well as the levels of phosphorus, calcium, magnesium and potassium. These four elements are most likely to be lacking in typical Pennsylvania soils. pH influences the uptake of these nutrients and also influences soil biology. So, don’t guess, soil test. Cost is nine bucks. You can’t beat that. You can <a href="http://www.aasl.psu.edu/">download the forms needed </a>at or stop by our office for a pre-addressed “kit’ to submit samples. <br />
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Step 2 – Build soil organic matter levels. Organic matter is a soil textural cure-all. Organic matter creates large pore spaces that improves soil aeration. That’s good for root growth. In addition, organic matter increases beneficial biological activity, adds essential nutrients and improves “workability” or tilth of the soil. Manures and compost are the most common ways to add organic matter. Green manure and cover crops, too. Good gardeners never miss a chance to add organic matter and actively seek it. High organic matter levels are probably something all great gardens have in common. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAtXhe2jrvC_vXMaNWySmw1t_3QnjBHL-F5IjwaLvvo7mqHES7G3FRmG4PxvFIDdRShIhbtsFnlwszxS1VoTHaMsTMmfJK3ma-NOeaRbz3TV3kv6l-q0oGmCw2idOtyaWfmWOxOABQvaY/s1600/tomato+staked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAtXhe2jrvC_vXMaNWySmw1t_3QnjBHL-F5IjwaLvvo7mqHES7G3FRmG4PxvFIDdRShIhbtsFnlwszxS1VoTHaMsTMmfJK3ma-NOeaRbz3TV3kv6l-q0oGmCw2idOtyaWfmWOxOABQvaY/s320/tomato+staked.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Step 3 – Study the requirements of the crops you grow. Each species that we grow has a unique set of cultural requirements …cold hardiness, heat tolerance, spacing requirements, ideal planting date, optimum harvest time, etc. Seed packets provide the basics. For a more complete story find a good reference such as <a href="http://http//pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf">Vegetable Gardening</a>, a new publication from Penn State. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCEzDSBynffnJoboIa2Z6ZyI-E195SNzWwzgZFwlfhr-lEoNf3pid4lrIxGhLoryBsZv8MvJF0nzFtduZm8DSPQKfevQb8Ub398HvCD_b10uv6GO89DOpEPLjuZs3vUUeYRqxiufyffc/s1600/squash+bugs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCEzDSBynffnJoboIa2Z6ZyI-E195SNzWwzgZFwlfhr-lEoNf3pid4lrIxGhLoryBsZv8MvJF0nzFtduZm8DSPQKfevQb8Ub398HvCD_b10uv6GO89DOpEPLjuZs3vUUeYRqxiufyffc/s320/squash+bugs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Step 4 - Study the lives of garden pests. You are not the only one interested in those tomatoes, squash and your first born strawberry. In fact, for many garden pests this is a matter of life and death… shear survival. You will share your production with them. Question is.. how much. Get to know the insects, diseases, weeds and mammals that are sure to take a bite out of your garden. Learn which ones are most likely to take the biggest bite and plan strategies to manage them. In some cases this will be simple. For instance, choosing disease tolerant varieties solves a host of fungal problems. A no-brainer! Cabbage worms… Bt! On the other hand, some pests require so much attention that it may not be worth the battle. Sweet corn worms… I’ll leave that to Farmer Brown to handle. Visit any .edu websites for solid pest management information.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8nPcm9445iq4td12KPSIYof9s9gpnjQa5iUFNtWWatt1ciobTb6OWukGJezhR8nFGJooh5bItTLkVE2_WnXpiOxaKXfGFXN-3FIOXuaw2uX3vmfTcbVLFijaI_krIzAxEzzT7dqPk24/s1600/basket+of+vegetables.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8nPcm9445iq4td12KPSIYof9s9gpnjQa5iUFNtWWatt1ciobTb6OWukGJezhR8nFGJooh5bItTLkVE2_WnXpiOxaKXfGFXN-3FIOXuaw2uX3vmfTcbVLFijaI_krIzAxEzzT7dqPk24/s320/basket+of+vegetables.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Step 5 - Use insect and disease resistant varieties. We mentioned this in step 4 but it bears repeating. Plant breeders have performed miracles by incorporating natural resistance to key pests in virtually all of the crops we grow. Early blight, late blight, powdery mildew, wilts, rots spots… become minor issues rather than devastating losses for many crops. Take advantage of this free form of pest control! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5Uv7lmdtI2yEgZ3sr3zhk0ltr7Ks7CyI8kgXWwo2gT6gV_zjilpdnVUfMxUEZPEOYzVCddAfIgG1NmCTfZtPrI05hN4bMvUQPJF2hO7dWDoIStGgfVhfw0OWaGNdOHAmRdfOA7-tjuc/s1600/May+June+2008+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5Uv7lmdtI2yEgZ3sr3zhk0ltr7Ks7CyI8kgXWwo2gT6gV_zjilpdnVUfMxUEZPEOYzVCddAfIgG1NmCTfZtPrI05hN4bMvUQPJF2hO7dWDoIStGgfVhfw0OWaGNdOHAmRdfOA7-tjuc/s320/May+June+2008+007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Step 6 - Mulch, Mulch, Mulch. Both organic and synthetic mulches do wonders for gardens. They conserve moisture, control weeds, moderate soil temperatures, and improve soil quality. Straw, tree leaves, wood chips and many other organic mulches have great uses in the garden. Plastic mulches, in my opinion, are under-used by home gardeners. Heat loving crops such as tomato, eggplant and peppers as well as the vine crops love the heat. Try some. Bio-degradable and paper mulches are also available if that suits you better. Similar results. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqgLwXZ8AX5zQlYcmrfdKBSiGXqm6Pw6c7RigpDzWLi09RtYhfJ8GJjyMdJF4mUpXHVNN99qb4Z4TzfFlXhhvPY9-_DLNyVSQfnC3W2lTwCo1basNdVxNwCW63jLGz3dg_qKKOGaKlIQ/s1600/guage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqgLwXZ8AX5zQlYcmrfdKBSiGXqm6Pw6c7RigpDzWLi09RtYhfJ8GJjyMdJF4mUpXHVNN99qb4Z4TzfFlXhhvPY9-_DLNyVSQfnC3W2lTwCo1basNdVxNwCW63jLGz3dg_qKKOGaKlIQ/s320/guage.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Step 7 – Plan and record your garden activities. What was that great bean variety I grew last year? I know I planted 3 kinds of garlic out there, which is which? Are the Japanese beetles going to arrive when we go on vacation? A garden journal or notebook provides useful information and is fun off-season reading. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6nUWukUMHl6XxSmZRthdZAT_y9oz2wuwmHVcloAUPcc54AsELnS-Fvr1EAag9YR0AsGECNgGuZbd0yTY5-y1vtvFYBRfGo5d8L4WVAQFmv1GVSL-1jBUybEHrwyzxnvA4vKwjj1_jbjY/s1600/row+covers2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6nUWukUMHl6XxSmZRthdZAT_y9oz2wuwmHVcloAUPcc54AsELnS-Fvr1EAag9YR0AsGECNgGuZbd0yTY5-y1vtvFYBRfGo5d8L4WVAQFmv1GVSL-1jBUybEHrwyzxnvA4vKwjj1_jbjY/s320/row+covers2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Step 8 – Try something new each year. How about those floating row covers? Can I really grow onions from seed? Can I plant shallots in the fall? Are figs hardy around here? There is only one sure-fire way to find out. Give it a try. Over time, your experiences become rich garden knowledge. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7mWUZGFbPvhPdsFeZskO9RRXrR_CJO9ajsW_5hqGN0Gd5Yq_RCXeKEvj5QsXruDHgPnvnWbhrSfZTzPDkWNW8n_L1yXmlVnMcPc5O920VhT8pRaklzujQJwCWJWIXpIW7dYTFlPn6KI/s1600/2007+Feb-May+131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7mWUZGFbPvhPdsFeZskO9RRXrR_CJO9ajsW_5hqGN0Gd5Yq_RCXeKEvj5QsXruDHgPnvnWbhrSfZTzPDkWNW8n_L1yXmlVnMcPc5O920VhT8pRaklzujQJwCWJWIXpIW7dYTFlPn6KI/s320/2007+Feb-May+131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Step 9 – Start composting. Composting is a simple way to recycle garden and kitchen refuse. Doesn’t need to be elaborate. A simple “heap” of decomposing stuff does the trick. Type the word composting into the search box at www.agsci.psu.edu for more details. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71iFtjoxW7xqWPn53n2AZejBGJXlZLEbB3EPTBeeHSw5-hGPJBWVMYWG07RrAiTObxOfStpVciPLwNaBdhGtTZYv8r8lJoeoY6oxwR-xbKUPFFbKXXgcjyKTDSBn9CKvL-iGuk8C-dAg/s1600/Exhibit+MG+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71iFtjoxW7xqWPn53n2AZejBGJXlZLEbB3EPTBeeHSw5-hGPJBWVMYWG07RrAiTObxOfStpVciPLwNaBdhGtTZYv8r8lJoeoY6oxwR-xbKUPFFbKXXgcjyKTDSBn9CKvL-iGuk8C-dAg/s320/Exhibit+MG+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Step 10 – Read and study a wide range of garden folklore and science-based reports. We garden for pleasure so it’s a great way to explore the unknown, experiment and learn. Garden magazines, blogs and associations of specialists are easy to find. Did you know there was Pennsylvania Nut Growers Association? A garlic newsletter? Several huge tomato tasting events every year within easy driving distance? Subscribe, visit and learn.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-64477886642656682902011-01-20T11:45:00.003-05:002011-01-22T09:04:34.599-05:00Grow Your Own<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVszFrpSJp1jd6_ktXHnlA6zWvZIjy6WZ3cJ_bVT9laRLxpMVc4zb3e7NM1wkQY1PYi2clNoEqVO_NI27396v4MnNho5AVv0Ot_8WanCeeJUa3r_02bqI0mAnzf9KoUdcw7O3CKFQHTg4/s1600/radish2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVszFrpSJp1jd6_ktXHnlA6zWvZIjy6WZ3cJ_bVT9laRLxpMVc4zb3e7NM1wkQY1PYi2clNoEqVO_NI27396v4MnNho5AVv0Ot_8WanCeeJUa3r_02bqI0mAnzf9KoUdcw7O3CKFQHTg4/s320/radish2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
It seems that interest in growing more of your own food continues to gain steam. It’s hard to say what is fueling this phenomenon. Concerns about food quality? Trying to save a buck or two? Fretting over the environment? I don’t know. There must be a survey out there somewhere that sheds light on this. <br />
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For many years, gardening has been identified as America’s leading hobby. Add to this the growing interest in food and you’ve got something special. Farmers markets are springing up everywhere. Locally grown food is automatically gourmet. Suddenly, every other person you meet wants to keep honey bees…. my introduction to beekeeping course is sold out. <br />
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The good news is that Penn State Extension is ready, willing and able to help. We’ve been teaching people how to grow food for about 100 years. Publications are a good example of this. This fall, a brand new guide to vegetable gardening, authored by Elsa Sanchez, Associate Professor of Horticulture and her co-horts at Penn State was published. Fifty eight pages of research-based, (but user-friendly) information on the vegetable crops we love. It is cleverly titled <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf">Vegetable Gardening</a>. Hey, if you want the sizzle rather than the steak your local Land Grant University is not the place to go… but we do have the goods. <br />
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An equally good publication for fruit growers, <a href="http://agsci.psu.edu/fphg">Fruit Production for the Home Gardner </a>is 186 pages of powerful information on strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and other fruit culture. <br />
These two are good examples but just the tip of the iceberg. Go to the <a href="http://agsci.psu.edu/">College of Ag Sciences web site </a>and dig for more. We can teach you how to grow just about anything. Livestock, too. <br />
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Some folks learn better with a bit classroom instruction. In Bucks County, we’ve been conducting a short course called Living on A Few Acres for about 25 years. Now it is being offered throughout southeastern Pennsylvania. In this course you not only learn how to pick a ripe watermelon, you’ll find out how to tell if that hen is laying eggs, too! Call us at 215-345-3283 for registration information on the Bucks County course or <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/start-farming">this site </a>in other counties. <br />
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Some folks have an urge to go to the next level. Start farming. That’s a big step up from gardening. But it happens all of the time. Penn State recognized this need and is now engaged in a major effort to help those who want to grow food for profit. You can check out the extensive list of course offerings and more at the <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/start-farming">Start Farming website.</a> <br />
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Got kids? Are they between the ages of 8 and 18? If so, they can get a real fine, agricultural, hands-on experience through our 4-H youth program. Sheep, chickens, beef, turkeys, tomatoes, you name it. Ask for Bob Brown when you call our office. Hit <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/counties">this site for a directory of counties </a>in Pennsylvania and their local program. I’m a bit biased, I’ll admit, but observing the impact 4-H has on kids for more than 30 years has convinced me that it is one of the best youth programs available... and about the only one that will get your kid involved in agriculture. Learn by doing… what a concept!<br />
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Want to grow your own… just a little or enough to live on? Penn State Extension is a great place to get started.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-76509931763038120452011-01-05T17:56:00.010-05:002011-01-06T12:24:09.961-05:00Cold Storage...in your garden<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-2Mi_VbOEslJQvM6n5X_gCIGCfiYzJ8d7RdLCuC8to-wku23WCQVeyOcdZOQq5LcJ2wopvzOCD919qEumsuV_Tm2D0AVfFl7rE13QawyaqYH3pE4hnPc1lk_3nDK42vtFghkOGQnAv8/s1600/swedes+in+pail.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-2Mi_VbOEslJQvM6n5X_gCIGCfiYzJ8d7RdLCuC8to-wku23WCQVeyOcdZOQq5LcJ2wopvzOCD919qEumsuV_Tm2D0AVfFl7rE13QawyaqYH3pE4hnPc1lk_3nDK42vtFghkOGQnAv8/s320/swedes+in+pail.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558846687464527890" /></a><br /><br /><br />There’s nothing like eating stuff from your own garden. This pleasure is usually confined to the growing season. Juicy tomatoes, salad ingredients that were alive minutes before you ate them, ripe melons…<br /><br />But some crops maintain good quality after harvest... if given proper storage conditions. Cold and moist is usually what is required . Root crops may be the best example of garden produce with excellent storage life …if they are kept cold and moist. Beets, carrots and parsnips, are good candidates. The cabbage family works well this way, too. The text book says 32 degrees F and 95-100 percent humidity is ideal. Cold but not frozen. Very high humidity. <br /><br />This can be tricky to achieve in most homes, cellars and garages. The simplest way to hold these crops is to plant them so they mature at the end of the growing season and then just mulch them heavily, in place, with something like straw. In our mild winters the soil does not freeze too deeply, and if given some protection, you can continue the harvest thru winter. But you’ve got to literally dig them up.<br /><br />While visiting my pal Graham in Rhode Island this December, I see that he has taken the next step in “in-ground’ storage. He simply dug holes to accommodate two five-gallon pails. The pail tops are about level with the surrounding ground. Drilled some holes in the bottom of the buckets to allow any surface water to exit. He filled the pails with carrots and beets after the fall harvest in late October, lidded the pails and covered them with a bale of straw. You can see the results. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizojfl937lchZ9PXwBfs-ubnzmt5PNL2luB6nLVrR-BooTL4bjFgfoEBrEVYBmTVvDhTnyGJx_KXuc9ze5HxoA93G6y1_GBo-JxDuik4ZpbZq-1ixMLgUGbxDcbP8ISLBOPegscXRFqiw/s1600/snow+bale.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizojfl937lchZ9PXwBfs-ubnzmt5PNL2luB6nLVrR-BooTL4bjFgfoEBrEVYBmTVvDhTnyGJx_KXuc9ze5HxoA93G6y1_GBo-JxDuik4ZpbZq-1ixMLgUGbxDcbP8ISLBOPegscXRFqiw/s320/snow+bale.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558844083407330242" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhqGUJeTceuVlnuY4caZGG5uiRmraWNsuVHOcNJIwklfhWXcEU_NnYutTtTjcgL8bKzsbGf900epgBkBkHiZ22-CQmHt2-tLz8WIFZEK-aoKp33clEtYZn64aE9PSj0N02Q7Ml2HObqw/s1600/remove+bale.jpg"><img style="float:center; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhqGUJeTceuVlnuY4caZGG5uiRmraWNsuVHOcNJIwklfhWXcEU_NnYutTtTjcgL8bKzsbGf900epgBkBkHiZ22-CQmHt2-tLz8WIFZEK-aoKp33clEtYZn64aE9PSj0N02Q7Ml2HObqw/s320/remove+bale.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558844334230035570" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDdlCjWL8pAPSrZMDB3fYpKfWSgoOTTD2RU63NCe0sker-Ai2ojGM8hYmbggOYA2yhdeBEAw3ZUzQw-_SAkgu2tP9H2mnodDxxNgOfLjpaErX3jkOvqQqEl0m9Ef_cs8oXGFhUSbb3lY/s1600/pails+under+bale.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDdlCjWL8pAPSrZMDB3fYpKfWSgoOTTD2RU63NCe0sker-Ai2ojGM8hYmbggOYA2yhdeBEAw3ZUzQw-_SAkgu2tP9H2mnodDxxNgOfLjpaErX3jkOvqQqEl0m9Ef_cs8oXGFhUSbb3lY/s320/pails+under+bale.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558844498016322290" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzpFCX-Hp6AVx05lQgc_MAHpBKWa_v1hQ9WzClBlBAuRLNq1UqkH2T7ygSH1ZiZ2dv0PdvUMCdMWJI9yAnxOJHPCNKY5TrTumndq6gRI-QNKLBRip2Y0uE97RG-1dZ_XXDVLWP10X89U/s1600/carrots+in+pail.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzpFCX-Hp6AVx05lQgc_MAHpBKWa_v1hQ9WzClBlBAuRLNq1UqkH2T7ygSH1ZiZ2dv0PdvUMCdMWJI9yAnxOJHPCNKY5TrTumndq6gRI-QNKLBRip2Y0uE97RG-1dZ_XXDVLWP10X89U/s320/carrots+in+pail.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558843811643727986" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1h5uGZpHaN9tLzWSMHWVnJvK9NPhQIPZxCI_XXKixvKq1M_PZnFCQ67EegdJRE9pONSSVWODyvvJfC1HvnHB-c2-bjJv07AKXK7cJIoENkZ6L7gFACMl3hy1iViWZQhJQ1h0RyUNYzHk/s1600/beets+in+pail.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1h5uGZpHaN9tLzWSMHWVnJvK9NPhQIPZxCI_XXKixvKq1M_PZnFCQ67EegdJRE9pONSSVWODyvvJfC1HvnHB-c2-bjJv07AKXK7cJIoENkZ6L7gFACMl3hy1iViWZQhJQ1h0RyUNYzHk/s320/beets+in+pail.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558845690969610722" /></a><br /><br />You’ll have to trust me that the carrots were very tasty. Roasted. With some nice salmon. And a crisp white wine. Didn’t get around to the beets but they were solid as a rock. Sure, some sprouting had occurred but it did not seem to have influenced quality. <br />Something to think about as you plan for next year’s garden. The virtues of planning for a fall harvest can be extended into the shortest days of winter. <br /><br />The picture at the top shows <a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-26.html">rutabaga</a> or swedes, as my friend Graham calls them. Very tasty. <br /><br />For a list of storage conditions and some more ideas about vegetable storage, see <a href="http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/vegetables/storage.pdf">this from Cornell University.</a>Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-6712850293275363922010-11-05T11:34:00.004-04:002010-11-05T11:44:23.790-04:00"When the frost is on the pumpkin..."<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOujCqMrNAgeVKrDWBtu0J95Y2a1CkSNy9DUowIKe-PuFibV6r_dX1RKSSltWgQzRLWTKhr7Lce6SNQCgPqhITCWT77ORX6l7r79A33AazROkV_njDcCiOk8xiz2HoVFhc2Qb_scvHnk/s1600/Frost+015.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOujCqMrNAgeVKrDWBtu0J95Y2a1CkSNy9DUowIKe-PuFibV6r_dX1RKSSltWgQzRLWTKhr7Lce6SNQCgPqhITCWT77ORX6l7r79A33AazROkV_njDcCiOk8xiz2HoVFhc2Qb_scvHnk/s320/Frost+015.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536090927548555282" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.poetryfoundation.org/archive/poem.html?id=174222">The frost is on the pumpkin</a>! Twenty- four degrees was the reading on my thermometer on two consecutive mornings this week. Even hit twenty-eight in Doylestown. So the frost is on the pumpkin. This “killing frost” in the mid-twenties takes out all of the tender annuals… weeds and crops. Cold hardy plants carry on.<br /> <br />The picture shown here is a broccoli leaf and the heads that are part of this plant are still in good shape. In fact, one reason to plant fall maturing crops in the cabbage family (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts) is that they hold so well in the cool/cold temperatures of fall. Spring planted crops of the same species are forced to mature in the heat of late spring and early summer. They often go from “prime condition” to “over-the-hill” in a matter of days, especially when temperatures spike into the high eighties. I’d rather let Mother Nature hold them for me, naturally. <br /><br />Forgot to plant you fall crops? Perhaps our <a href="http://bucks.extension.psu.edu/Agriculture/fff_2010.pdf">local farmers </a>can come to the rescue. As I visit local vegetable farms I see beautiful fields of fall vegetables. And, I know that bushels of winter squash are stored away from the freezing temperatures, just waiting for you to make pumpkin pies, baked squash and other fall specialties. I even know a local sweet potato grower who has several varieties of this nutritious root. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo1vIgRIIofXruxSOImlI_fPXdw9gtKbCe4BHz5MjK1w5MPDW4pJcfWGfZVcQfp_USCracPPDm7S1f3EUxEfbCBWjGDZp1hWUSbEomYbDH2VNnYvhfpnUpS0q1zSOTd9hlB5Btf1Pn1X8/s1600/cabbage2.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 298px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo1vIgRIIofXruxSOImlI_fPXdw9gtKbCe4BHz5MjK1w5MPDW4pJcfWGfZVcQfp_USCracPPDm7S1f3EUxEfbCBWjGDZp1hWUSbEomYbDH2VNnYvhfpnUpS0q1zSOTd9hlB5Btf1Pn1X8/s320/cabbage2.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536091174143662498" /></a><br />Turnips, rutabagas and parsnips are not everyone’s cup of tea but if you have not tried the farm-fresh version of these root vegetables recently consider giving them a try. Maybe next year they will be part of your fall garden, too. <br /><br />Want more information on the culture of fall vegetable crops? <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf">Penn State’s brand new Vegetable Gardening publication </a>is a great place to start. <br /><br />PS <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEY9iYQ-Ves">For a wonderful reading of James Whitcob Rileys' poem</a>, see this.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-46362524425210578452010-10-26T11:35:00.004-04:002010-10-26T11:54:31.503-04:00Jack Frost, Garlic and Cover Crops.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW51a74jPtoP1KZrs5PJZJdm7B416lt6dfDrHgMbscDKnSkgTm9zSwEQwNcdI_NFnvVNNidz7ZZkukoaP7nphunYrjDxZefsgLzM1afqZow3QVX3SKF4sacIQq8jkrawOasoklDIZnehM/s1600/garlic+clovs+and+bulb.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW51a74jPtoP1KZrs5PJZJdm7B416lt6dfDrHgMbscDKnSkgTm9zSwEQwNcdI_NFnvVNNidz7ZZkukoaP7nphunYrjDxZefsgLzM1afqZow3QVX3SKF4sacIQq8jkrawOasoklDIZnehM/s320/garlic+clovs+and+bulb.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5532380109620121954" /></a><br />Rumors of frost were heard in northern Bucks County last Saturday (Oct 23) but for most of Southeastern PA the growing season continues uninterrupted. In fact, even where light frost occurred, as in my backyard, I still see many cold sensitive plants surviving. My fancy new minimum/maximum thermometer at the Extension office in Doylestown says 35 degrees F is as low as it’s been here. <br /><br />So, it is clear we have not had that killing freeze that signals a definite end to many aspects of gardening. But official, long-term records tell us that we are on borrowed time… the median (equal number of occurrences on both sides of the question) frost date in Bucks County is October 6. <br /><br />Sure enough the tomatoes and peppers that are still hanging on out there look pretty rough. The accumulation of summer diseases combined with short days and very cool nights makes most of us yank them out of the garden. In fact, smart gardeners ruthlessly pulled these plants a month ago and planted lettuce, spinach, broccoli rabe and other late season crops. Or maybe you even sacrificed the late season tomatoes altogether in return for a fall crop of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower by transplanting these “cole” crops in late August or early September. <br /><br />Even if you waited until now, there are a couple final crops you might consider. Cover crops and garlic. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8Z5Th6ljqe_0ylw1KJM_xt823HqvtxMpvlL-zJGCkLaMzGqdhyphenhyphenW8_fgz2IHDAcNh3p9mbMNuxij6BOAJQf0SPn2MdLnKw6FZyR4kmsk9f_y6MKxzAJ8zbWY6_ylQL0KemLitZsSVoK4/s1600/allelopathy+-+rye.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8Z5Th6ljqe_0ylw1KJM_xt823HqvtxMpvlL-zJGCkLaMzGqdhyphenhyphenW8_fgz2IHDAcNh3p9mbMNuxij6BOAJQf0SPn2MdLnKw6FZyR4kmsk9f_y6MKxzAJ8zbWY6_ylQL0KemLitZsSVoK4/s320/allelopathy+-+rye.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5532380473531988402" /></a>Cover crops are plants that we establish to protect soil from compaction, to soak up leftover nutrients and to build soil organic matter. The most common fall cover crop in our area is rye. Not ryegrass but cereal rye, sometimes called winter rye. It germinates quickly in the warm, fall soil and makes a vigorous overwintering cover that resurges in the spring. In fact, you have to prepare to manage this cover crop or it will become a beast that is hard to incorporate. Plan to spade it under in April before it begins to bolt and go to seed. You’ll be rewarded with a great shot of soil organic matter, nutrition and biological activity. Rye is not the easiest seed to find but old-time feed stores will a have it. Seed it at about 3 to 4 lbs per 1000 square feet into well-worked soil. It is a large seed so try to get it about an inch deep. <br /><br />Last but not least is garlic… the last edible crop we plant in the garden. Our goal is to have the garlic cloves root but not make too much top growth before winter sets in. This allows for a petty wide planting window. I shoot for Columbus Day in mid-October but planting until the end of October, or even a little later is not a problem. Get “seed” at a local farmers market selling locally grown stuff or order a variety grown in the Northeast US for best results. See <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf">this link </a>for more details, page 27. <br /><br />Jack Frost is coming but the gardening season continues.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-64537091195205600732010-10-10T12:18:00.006-04:002011-01-06T12:49:40.967-05:00Montauk Daisies, Nippon Daisy… Nipponanthemum nipponicum<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbutzzNz8YAZ-SGMm5cgKHWFqEU_VjF5ZNNeWBYtM98kPXKH42-Ph_C7xq1wn6dpr9G6ekd_ZIXGzV9j3GCnpSjeujuPlDG3qWO8qSvkzmZIudUU4pyslezxFaVwC1Oip3ugVfwKzOJs/s1600/Nippn+Daisy.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbutzzNz8YAZ-SGMm5cgKHWFqEU_VjF5ZNNeWBYtM98kPXKH42-Ph_C7xq1wn6dpr9G6ekd_ZIXGzV9j3GCnpSjeujuPlDG3qWO8qSvkzmZIudUU4pyslezxFaVwC1Oip3ugVfwKzOJs/s320/Nippn+Daisy.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526453640278565506" /></a><br />
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Mother Nature saved some of her best work for the end of the growing season with the <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/howtogrow/3315067/How-to-grow-Nipponanthemum.html">Nippon Daisy</a>. Also commonly called the Montauk Daisy (because it is commonly found on eastern Long Island), its Latin name, <em>Nipponanthemum nipponicum</em>, makes it pretty clear that this plant is native to Japan (Nippon). Plant lovers may also know it by its former Latin binomial, <em>Chrysanthemum nipponicum</em>. By its current classification, it is the only member of its genus, one of 477 genera in the Aster Family. So much for the nomenclature. <br />
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Almost precisely one year ago, I was on a busman’s holiday in Rhode Island, looking over the Kathleen Mallon Memorial Demonstration Gardens on the campus of the University of Rhode Island. They are created and maintained by Master Gardeners in that state and named for an Extension Educator who was instrumental in launching the Master Gardener program there. I was knocked out by the brilliant white show of flowers from Nippon Daisy. My plant pal, Mary Jane, quickly identified it and told me that they were as common as clams in Rhode Island. Then I started noticing them everywhere in Costal New England. <br />
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Back home, the Nippon Daisy faded from memory until I was in a very good local garden center this summer and asked if they had ever heard of them. I don’t see them used much in SE PA. The plantsman at the garden center agreed but said he was beginning to get inquiries about it. Sure enough he had a few containerized plants and they are now lighting up my fall landscape. <br />
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<a href="http://www.gardeningcentral.org/montauk_daisy/montauk_daisy.html">Nippon Daisy is hardy in zones 6-9 and is a rugged plant</a>. It tolerates dry sites, does best in full sun and makes its floral display late in the growing season. It will <a href="http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/173617/">grow about three feet tall and wide </a>and requires some simple/easy pruning for best performance. They can become “leggy”, that is, produces naked stems but with a bit of pruning the plant can be kept a bit more compact. Plan to cut them close to the ground each spring. Most landscape design advice is to plan for something that grows a bit lower in front of Nippon Daisy to hide its bare legs as the season progresses. Some references say deer don’t care much for it and it has stood up to a modest test in my landscape. The floral display beings in late summer and lasts late into the fall. White is the word. Maybe it is the contrast of white with the reds and golds of our fall foliage that makes it so attractive. Makes a good cut flower, too. <br />
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Reading about this plant, I learned that the famous plant breeder and legendary, pioneering geneticist, Luther Burbank hybridized this species with other closely related species to create Shasta Daisy and other popular cultivars which we still enjoy. Apparently, it was the brilliant white that made him choose Nippon Daisy for his work. <br />
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It seems that my revelation about Nippon Daisy would cause a chuckle among coastal gardeners but until I see more of them in Pennsylvania landscapes, I will continue to talk up this great plant. <br />
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It’s not too late to search for this fantastic daisy in local garden centers. Call it Montauk, Nippon or <em>Nipponanthemum nipponicum</em>, this plant is worth a look if you are in the market for an outstanding fall bloomer for a hot, dry site.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-80955718477428770852010-08-13T10:56:00.004-04:002010-08-13T11:04:41.327-04:00New Backyard Vegetable Publication from Penn State<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dvmfP9lnAetSeoNgY2gdOpp5Pm_cDS7hTBJsok5bFbV7Ghqb9Nxn1b5O8-WE9BIOGATMJE-2tcsV0Mbm58tE0xCvVSERkbVxfHhso4DCOD7fE6rMOnNuP7B4NsN4IWV80_YVK5ScZxE/s1600/veg+basket.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 319px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dvmfP9lnAetSeoNgY2gdOpp5Pm_cDS7hTBJsok5bFbV7Ghqb9Nxn1b5O8-WE9BIOGATMJE-2tcsV0Mbm58tE0xCvVSERkbVxfHhso4DCOD7fE6rMOnNuP7B4NsN4IWV80_YVK5ScZxE/s320/veg+basket.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504910278655243282" /></a><br /><br />Who said there is nothing new under the sun? Penn State just published a new, 58 page guide to backyard vegetable production titled <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/PubTitle.asp?varTitle=vegetable+gardening"><em><strong>Vegetable Gardening… Recommendations for Home Gardeners in Pennsylvania</strong></em></a>. It contains sections on mulches, container growing, irrigation and other cultural practices. Following this, there is a separate discussion of key plant groups: Brassicas (cabbages), root crops, bulb crops, leafy vegetables, tomato/eggplant and others. <br /><br />There is information on seed starting, planting dates, spacing, pest management and harvesting…. everything beginning gardeners need to begin a successful garden. Seasoned gardeners are sure to pick up a few new ideas as well. <br /><br />Dates described in the guide refer to central Pennsylvania. Those of us in the southern part of the state can adjust suggested dates about 10 days at both ends of the growing season. So, the gardening season is not over! Lettuces, turnips, radish are just a few of the tasty crops we can seed or transplant this month. With season extending rows covers we’ll be gardening until Thanksgiving. <br /><br /><em><strong>Vegetable Gardening… Recommendations for Home Gardeners in Pennsylvania </strong></em>distills the knowledge of more than dozen Penn State experts and was organized by associate professor of Horticulture, Elsa Sanchez. You can order a copy or simply read it on line by going to <a href="http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/PubTitle.asp?varTitle=vegetable+gardening">this site</a>.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6251137225980886312.post-4474238341188465342010-08-11T11:25:00.010-04:002010-08-11T16:07:30.670-04:00Summer Color with Crapemyrtles<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKSINwYibPDnalpDSf6baYVnBKhkVoPSA1F8V4UGKd6tX4miZu9hGfoDhKsTn1Dax2eiBKqyCTliQ9vAP-cIDynUBDD7Xiiy-KWySavwSb5gyJeMBn9kqwTN9-brjMInWQmJqnB9vk8A/s1600/crapemyrtle+tusc+blook.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKSINwYibPDnalpDSf6baYVnBKhkVoPSA1F8V4UGKd6tX4miZu9hGfoDhKsTn1Dax2eiBKqyCTliQ9vAP-cIDynUBDD7Xiiy-KWySavwSb5gyJeMBn9kqwTN9-brjMInWQmJqnB9vk8A/s320/crapemyrtle+tusc+blook.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504245310923685890" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Most of the flowering trees and large shrubs we admire in the landscape are spring bloomers. Think dogwood, cherry, magnolia….crabapple, pear, serviceberry….redbud, lilac and viburnum.<br /><br />So, stunning summer flowering trees are a treat for the eyes. One of the most conspicuous small trees/large shrubs that I see at this time of year is Crapemyrtle, <em>Lagerstroemia</em>. Common flower colors are shades of pink and red but white cultivars exist. In addition to the showy flowers, Crapemyrtle bark is very attractive…shades of cinnamon brown and gray that exfoliates with age. One respected plantsman says “If Crapemyrtle never produced flowers or leaves, it would not be a bad thing.” That’s high praise for bark characteristics. <br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYD3HYutWxvBrOzz-sd7aBq3Azd6LLHEkkttq48Kddb8KfTp6ij8cHGbs_X7ZMPFpb8nuEBmfDrPbdHr4K5bd2l9YUyhYPhKs9OqGNtDniKo8oTPXNZ1CDTxgJa5gbfxzYO6WJ8ctIOs/s1600/crapemyrtle+Tuscarora.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYD3HYutWxvBrOzz-sd7aBq3Azd6LLHEkkttq48Kddb8KfTp6ij8cHGbs_X7ZMPFpb8nuEBmfDrPbdHr4K5bd2l9YUyhYPhKs9OqGNtDniKo8oTPXNZ1CDTxgJa5gbfxzYO6WJ8ctIOs/s320/crapemyrtle+Tuscarora.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504244953204113442" /></a><br />One reason Crapemyrtle is somewhat unusual in Pennsylvania landscapes is its hardiness. Unless you are in <a href="http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hzm-ne1.html">zone 6 or 7</a> it won’t survive. Even in zone 6, expect dieback to the ground in severe winters. What has helped make Crapemyrtle more popular is a breeding program from the National Arboretum which added both winter hardiness and disease tolerance from <em>Lagerstroemia fauriei </em>to <em>Lagerstroemia indica</em>, resulting in about 20 wonderful hybrids. These cultivars, developed by Dr. Donald Egolf, all have Native American tribal names, so they are easy to spot. Tuscarora, Natchez, Hopi, Sioux, etc. <a href="http://www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/faqs/crapemyrtlefaq2.html">A list of National Arboretum selections </a>and a thorough description will guide you to good decisions. <br /><br />Aside from being marginally hardy for parts of Pennsylvania, the plant is tough as nails. Yea, Japanese beetles like to chew on them and reference books describe other pests… but nothing life threatening. Crapemyrtles thrives in hot spots and tolerate poor soil. Full sun exposure is best. <br /><br />So, if you have a hot spot in the landscape that can accommodate a multi-stemmed tree/shrub which will mature between 10 and 20 feet, and you would like a splash of bright color in the landscape in mid-summer, think Crapemyrtles. Start with the National Arboretum selections and beware of hardiness requirements. I counted more than 60 cultivars in my reference books, not all of them are appropriate for Southeastern Pennsylvania.Scott Guiserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04812820951793692090noreply@blogger.com4